Cookridge Garden Club
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Previous Top Ten Tips

  1. When watering make sure that you aim at the base of the plant and not at the foliage since it is the roots which require the nourishment. As far as possible, try to store and use rainwater for feeding.
  2. In hot weather water containers and baskets particularly thoroughly and apply a balanced liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks.
  3. Keep bird tables topped up with water.
  4. When watering in the greenhouse try to do so either in the evening or early in the morning in order to minimise loss through evaporation.
  5. Raspberries are shallow-rooting so they will require plenty of water during hot and dry periods. Keep other fruits and vegetables watered daily in warm weather so that they are constantly moist.
  6. As long as they are clear of chemical treatments, use grass cuttings as a mulch, especially around potato plants so that tubers near to the surface do not turn green. Alternatively, earth up the plants as they grow or top up with compost if using growbags.
  7. Pinch off the tips of broad beans if affected by blackfly.
  8. Now is the time to prune plum, peach, apricot and cherry trees to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease.
  9. Keep clearing diseased and spent foliage from vegetable patches to maintain healthy crops.
  10. Keep slugs at bay with a non-toxic repellent.
  1. Annual summer bedding plants can now be planted out.
  2. Containers, hanging baskets and planters can be planted up while those which have been growing in a greenhouse can be  moved outside.
  3. Thin out overcrowded hardy annuals.
  4. Pinch out fuchsia tips to encourage more flowers and a bushier appearance.
  5. Pinch out the side shoots from tomato plants and feed as soon as fruit appears on the first truss. The pinched side shoots can then be potted to produce more plants.
  6. Earth-up potato plants as they grow. If you are using grow bags the increase the compost layer to halfway up the plant stem.
  7. Prune plum and cherry trees. Thin out congested branches on all fruit trees.
  8. Trim evergreen hedges.
  9. Remove pests such as mildew, aphids, scarlet lily beetle, weevils and slugs.
  10. Provide water for birds, especially in hot weather.
  1. Give young fruit trees plenty of water while they grow rapidly. Remove blossom and fruits from newly-planted fruit trees so that they can establish well during their first year.
  2. Protect soft-fruit plants with netting to deter birds and surround strawberries with straw. Check gooseberry bushes for sawfly caterpillars.
  3. Greenhouses: ventilate on hot days and damp down to increase humidity and deter red spider mites; use blinds or shade paint to avoid extremes of temperature; harden-off half-hardy bedding plants in preparation for outdoor planting.
  4. Reduce the risk of blackfly on broad beans by pinching out the growing points as soon as the first beans appear at the bottom of the plant.
  5. Thin out directly-sown vegetable seedlings then water the remaining ones well.
  6. If you have a newly-sown lawn wait until it reaches 3” in height before mowing with the mower blades set high.
  7. Harden off: half-hardy plants [ leave them outside during daytime and bring them back under cover for 7 – 10 days before planting out]; dahlias [ ready to go out after the last frosts]; and summer bedding plants.
  8. Divide: herbaceous perennials and hostas; prune over-crowded and dead stems of early-flowering clematis.
  9. Take cuttings of tender and hardy perennials, and softwood cuttings of shrubby herbs.
  10. Feed and water container plants and give them a balanced liquid feed every 2 – 4 weeks.

Our TOP TEN TIPS for APRIL include some advice on planting lily bulbs and we are grateful to Paul Blom of Blom’s Bulbs [Blomsbulbs.com] for permission to reproduce his advice on the topic and to member Katherine Hill for forwarding the article to us. Paul writes:’ Lilium Fusion . . . an extra-large bulb . . . offers unparalleled vigour, producing a spectacular and reliable display that justifies the initial outlay many times over. Think of your bulbs as an underground storage structure, good bulbs being essential for producing good, strong, healthy plants. If you have not already done so try and make sure that you plant your lilies by the end of this month.

More generally many of the spring bulbs, especially where they have been undisturbed for four or five years, will benefit from lifting and division. Large clumps competing for water and nutrients can lead to a lack of flowers and bulbs coming up ‘blind.’ As a bonus to lifting and dividing you get to increase your stocks. For the smaller bulbs this should be done while they are in ‘ the green.’ Many are hard to find if the job is left until the autumn. The main considerations to bear in mind are:

  1. Only divide the clumps when the bulbs have finished flowering;
  2. This is a job for when the ground is damp. As far as possible try and lift the bulbs as one clump, avoiding damage to the roots;
  3. Carefully tease the clumps of bulbs apart by hand, keeping as much soil and root structure as possible;
  4. Prepare the ground thoroughly, working in any additional compost as required;
  5. Ideally replant singly, spacing them at least two bulbs’ widths apart. Where large clumps include small seedlings, replant the bulbs in small clusters;
  6. Plant to the same depth as before, indicated by a change in stem colour from green to white;
  7. Water in thoroughly to settle the roots.’
  1. As we have just been advised by Paul Blom, now is the recommended time to plant lily bulbs for a good summer display. Planting the bulbs in pots has the advantage of being able to move the displays around, either on a patio or into spaces in your borders. Half-fill a container of at least 12”/30 cm diameter with good multi-purpose compost which will accommodate three bulbs. Cover with more compost and water-in. Move to a sunny position when the first shoots appear and feed weekly with a liquid plant feed from the beginning of summer.
  2. Before hot weather arrives, mulch trees and shrubs with organic matter such as well-rotted manure then lightly fork-in a balanced, slow-release fertiliser into the soil surface.
  3. Perennials: lift and divide to improve vigour and create new plants, and cut back dead foliage.
  4. Check that tree ties are not cutting into the trunk and loosen where necessary.
  5. Don’t allow container plants to dry out in warm weather.
  6. Plant chitted potatoes either into the ground or into potato grow-bags.
  7. If planting strawberry beds first enrich the ground with well-rotted manure then cover the plants with cloches for an earlier crop.
  8. Apply a slow-release fertiliser to the bases of raspberry canes, fruit bushes and fruit trees.
  9. Thoroughly clean your greenhouse with hot, soapy water to kill pests and let in more light.
  10. Lawns: on a dry day brush away worm casts; repair bare patches; apply a high-nitrogen fertiliser; if necessary apply a specialised lawn-weed killer.

  1. Top up raised beds with fresh compost and good-quality topsoil. Top dress containers by replacing the top 1” of old soil with fresh compost. Check that the rest of the soil in the container has not dried out.
  2. Dig in at least 5 cms/0.5” of compost or well-rotted manure into intended growing beds. Chicken manure pellets or fish, blood and bone can also be used.
  3. Plant out forced flower bulbs which no longer flower indoors e.g. hyacinth, daffodils.
  4. Plant summer-flowering bulbs such as gladioli and lilies and sow flower seeds to be ready for planting out in June. In your greenhouse start sowing bedding plant seeds ready to plant out after the last frosts.
  5. Prune over-wintered fuchsias back to one or two buds on each shoot.
  6. Start sowing vegetable seeds such as carrots, radish or lettuce either in the greenhouse or under cloches.
  7. Plant chitted early potatoes in the ground towards the end of the month. Use portable containers if ground space is limited.
  8. Plant fresh rhubarb crowns and mulch existing plants with well-rotted manure [taking care not to cover the crown] to maintain health and to reduce moisture loss through the soil.
  9. Cover strawberries with a cloche for earlier fruiting.
  10. Ventilate greenhouses and cold frames on warm days.
  1. Trim deciduous hedges before the nesting season starts.
  2. Cut back vines such as ivy and Virginia Creeper to keep gutterings, roof tiles and windows clear.
  3. Unless you already know the make-up of your soil use a soil testing kit so that you can choose the right sorts of plants for your garden.
  4. Consider fitting lawn edgings for an overall smarted appearance and less maintenance work.
  5. Avoid the temptation to sow too many seeds in your greenhouse at this time of the year when reduced light levels will result in ‘leggy’ growth. Later sowings will be sufficiently healthy.
  6. Pot on rooted cuttings of tender perennials which were taken last year.
  7. Move deciduous trees and shrubs if you need to, provided that the ground is not waterlogged or frozen.
  8. If you want to make an early start to cultivation but your soil is heavy then consider building raised beds before the growing season begins. The soil in the beds will warm up more easily, drain more quickly, and subsequent work will be easier on your back.
  9. Stone-fruit trees can be planted now. Protect the blossom of existing apricots, peaches and nectarines.
  10. Mulch fruit trees with well-rotted manure or garden compost but keep the mulch away from the trunk.
  1. Although the prospect of heavy snow seems distant at the moment, should there be a heavy fall then remember to clear it from hedges and conifers so that branches don’t break under the weight. Similarly brush away any accumulations which pile up on greenhouse roofs and coldframe covers to avoid damage to the glass.
  2. If you have had a natural Christmas tree then you can either shred it for the compost heap or you can strip off the branches in order to use them as pea sticks.
  3. Consider buying water butts in order to collect winter rain for summer watering. Rain water is also preferable for acid-loving ericaceous plants since tap water is somewhat alkaline.
  4. If you feel the need to screen unattractive features such as old sheds or composting areas then consider using evergreen climbing plants such as clematis ‘Winter Beauty’ or clematis ‘Armandii’ as a screen which will also add interest during winter.
  5. Keep checking stored fruit, vegetables and dahlia tubers and remove straightaway anything that shows signs of rotting.
  6. POTATOES: for an early crop, start growing in containers which will need to be under cover, as should potato planters in order to be protected from frosts. Potato grow bags should also be protected from frost and this can be done using horticultural fleece.
  7. If you are growing winter brassicas remove any yellowing leaves since they will be of no benefit to the plant and may even harbour pests and diseases.
  8. Prune bushes of blackcurrants, gooseberries and redcurrants.
  9. Prune wisterias and rose bushes and cut back old stems of perennials such as sedum, taking care not to damage new growth.
  10. If you intend growing early peas then place a cloche over the growing area so that the soil will warm up during the weeks prior to sowing.
  1. Spike lawns for better drainage and aeration and keep clearing fallen leaves to let in light and prevent dead patches.
  2. Insulate outdoor taps or turn them off at the mains and store away un-required hose pipes.
  3. Prune: fruit trees [not stone-fruit trees] for a balanced and open shape which will encourage a good yield; Also prune grape vines.
  4. Protect: wall-trained peaches and nectarines from wet winter weather which can cause peach leaf curl fungus. Screen the plants with polythene taking care not to touch the plant; tips of fig tree branches with fleece and straw so that they will not be harmed by frost which will spoil next year’s fruits.
  5. Apply gluebands or greasebands to fruit tree trunks to stop female winter moths from laying eggs in the branches.
  6. Lift and store dahlia tubers after the leaves have been blackened by frost.
  7. Lift and divide established clumps of rhubarb to renew their strength. Sections taken from outside the plant are preferable to those taken from the centre.
  8. Check that climbers are secured to their supports.
  9. If harvesting holly berries for garlands or wreaths stand them in a bucket of water before using them.
  10. Spread fresh gravel or grit around alpine plants.

  1. Wash, dry and store used pots, seed trays and other containers so that pests and diseases cannot lodge and spoil next year’s plants.
  2. If lighting a bonfire do check that no hedgehogs or other wildlife are in the vicinity.
  3. Before storing used canes let them dry out so that their lives can be extended.
  4. If you have external taps and pipework insulate them with foam lagging to protect them from freezing conditions.
  5. Raise potted plants off the ground so that they don’t become waterlogged.
  6. Now is a good time to plant currant bushes and raspberries. Pear and apple trees can be pruned between now and February but plum trees should be left until mid-summer. Apply gluebands or greasebands to the trunks of fruit trees to prevent female winter moths from climbing into the branches and laying eggs.
  7. Wait until after the first frosts before lifting parsnips. This will improve their flavour.
  8. Prepare beds for perennial vegetables such as crowns of rhubarb and asparagus and spread fresh manure over vegetable beds so that it rots in over winter.
  9. Plant: daffodil bulbs; tulip bulbs [ to prevent Tulip Fibre infection]; spring bedding displays of pansies, violas and primulas; bare root roses [any time between now and March]; and a magnolia tree. With the aid of pots plant heather, grasses and trailing ivy for winter colour, and hyacinth bulbs for a spring display.
  10. Lift dahlia tubers, begonia and gladiolus corms and remove dead foliage before storing dry during winter; cut back yellow foliage on herbaceous perennials and lift and divide overcrowded clumps; gather fallen leaves from around the bases of roses which have suffered from blackspot or rust during summer so that you reduce the risk of infection next year.
  1. Spent compost from containers of annual displays can be used as a garden mulch
  2. Gather fallen leaves for leaf-mould soil conditioner. Oak, alder and hornbeam will rot in about 12 months but beech, sycamore, horse/sweet chestnut will require a couple of years to compost. Don’t compost leaves which show signs of disease.
  3. Check stored onion, garlic and potatoes and remove anything which shows signs of rotting. Onion bags and hessian sacks will allow respective contents to breathe.
  4. Give evergreen hedges a final trim before winter sets in.
  5. Once plants are dormant they can be lifted and re-located if so-desired.
  6. Greenhouse: if it is fairly empty then clean and  disinfect it to allow in more light and to deter overwintering pests and diseases. Remove any greenhouse shading in order to allow in maximum light. If you are moving tender plants into the greenhouse for protection from early frosts first check them for any pests and then space them out well for good ventilation and avoidance of diseases.
  7. Citrus trees should be moved indoors to a bright and frost-free location with a temperature range of 4 – 12C. Avoid draughts and radiators. Apply less water during winter but don’t allow the plant to go completely dry.
  8. After tidying borders mulch them with either bark chips, well-rotted manure, leaf mould or spent mushroom compost. These will insulate the plants’ roots during winter and reduce weed growth.
  9. While the soil is still warm lift and divide overcrowded herbaceous perennials.
  10. Harvest squashes and pumpkins before the arrival of the first frosts otherwise they will turn mushy if left outside.

  1. Lawns: now is a good time to carry out measures to avoid compaction and waterlogging:
    • Aerate – use a garden fork or a special tool;
    • Thatch – rake off from the lawn surface and repair dead patches. Use a scarifying machine if the lawn is big enough. Follow up with a lawn top-dressing and feed with an autumn fertiliser which should be rich in potassium and low in nitrogen.
  2. If you have clay soil apply organic matter and/or horticultural grit before it becomes too wet or even frozen.
  3. Sowing green manures such as mustard, clover or rye grass on uncultivated areas will improve the soil and help to keep down weeds during winter.
  4. Empty old and decaying material from greenhouse pots otherwise they will harbour pests during winter. Don’t put diseased plant remains into your compost bin since they may retain spores which will cause reinfection. Also don’t allow rotting fruit to remain on apple, pear and plum trees since they too can spread disease.
  5. Use bricks or ‘pot feet’ to raise potted items off the ground and prevent waterlogging.
  6. Clear pond weeds and cover the pond with a net to make it easier to clear fallen leaves.
  7. If you need to use a weedkiller then now is the time to do so since weeds are more vulnerable to such treatment in autumn. A glyphosate-based weed killer will kill the roots as well as the leaves.
  8. If you haven’t already done so then install water butts now so that you take advantage of the autumn and winter rains. The long dry spells of the present year will have emphasised the need not to depend solely on tap water.
  9. Begin the autumn clean-up. Remove finished crops and clear weeds so that plots are tidy for the winter. When beans and peas have finished cropping cut the plants at ground level leaving the roots in the soil so that, as they break down, they will release their fixed nitrogen into the soil.
  10. Greenhouses: clean them out thoroughly to reduce the risk of pests and disease next year;
    • Towards the end of September remove shading from the glass to allow maximum light penetration;
    • Water early in the day so that the greenhouse is dry by evening otherwise damp, cool nights can encourage botrytis;
    • Close vents and doors late in the afternoon so that warmth is preserved overnight and plants are helped to crop for the maximum amount of time.

  1. Lawns: don’t give them high-nitrogen food now because the autumn weather can easily damage any resulting lush growth; cut with  raised mower blades since the grass grows more slowly in late summer; if you intend laying a new lawn this autumn prepare the ground now so that any germinating weeds can be dug out before planting.
  2. Order bulbs and perennial plants for autumn delivery.
  3. Mow wildflower areas to help scatter the seeds.
  4. Keep patio container plants well-watered and feed every two weeks with a liquid fertiliser.
  5. Stake tall and top-heavy dahlias and lilies to prevent wind and rain damage.
  6. Deadhead lilies and perennial plants and cut back faded perennials and herbs.
  7. Pick runner beans regularly so that they don’t become stringy and so that you make room for developing pods. Leaving mature pods to set seed can prevent the development of further flowers and reduce your crop.
  8. If you discover potato or tomato blight remove and destroy infected plants.
  9. Spring-sown carrots and beetroot can either be harvested now or left longer in the ground.
  10. Plant out rooted runners of strawberries for a good crop next year.

  1. Give plenty of water to baskets and containers and feed them with a balanced liquid fertiliser every two to four weeks.
  2. For efficient watering make a tiny pond around the bottom of the plant so that the water penetrates as far down as 10”/25 cms. thereby providing nourishment for several days. Merely wetting the surface will encourage weeds and surface rooting which will make the plant more vulnerable. As far as possible use rainwater instead of tapwater.
  3. Lawns: in dry weather cut with the mower blades raised higher than usual in order to reduce stress on the grass. Newly-seeded and newly-turfed lawns should not be allowed to dry out. Warm, dry weather will encourage weeds to grow quickly so apply a special lawn weedkiller if necessary. If you have ant infestation then brush out the nest on a dry day and brush it right away from the lawn before mowing.
  4. Make sure that bird baths are always full.
  5. Remove blanket weed from ponds so that plants and fish can breathe more easily. Once removed, leave the weeds close to the pond side so that any creatures caught up in them can return to the water.
  6. Greenhouses: prevent excessive heat by opening doors and ventilators, using blinds or shade paint, and damping down to increase humidity and deter red spider mites. Check daily plants which are in the greenhouse and water them well so that the soil/compost doesn’t dry out, remembering, however, that watering is best either early in the morning or during the evening to reduce moisture loss through evaporation. Use sticky traps to catch flying pests so that you can identify what sort of repellent might be required.
  7. Prune plum, cherry, apricot and peach trees so that you reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. If you have apple and/or pear trees which are trained as espaliers, cordons or fans then pruning them now will help to maintain them in good shape.
  8. Raspberries are shallow-rooted so water them well in dry weather.
  9. Pests:
    • Blackfly on broad beans – pinch-off affected growing tips;           
    •  Slugs – repel with a non-toxic repellent;
    •  Sawfly on gooseberries – jet-off with water or remove by hand;     
    • Powdery mildew on plants – spray with fungicide after removing affected parts;
    • Aphids under leaves – rub off by hand and spray with a suitable repellent;
    • Scarlet lily beetle – remove and crush. Check for sticky brown larvae on the undersides of the leaves.
    • Vine weevil – can cause plants to wilt for no obvious reason. Tip the plant out of its pot
    • Cabbage-white butterfly – squash the eggs,and look for creamy c-shaped maggots among the roots. Treat with nematodes.
    • Remember that ladybirds, hoverfly and lacewings feed on greenfly and blackfly so encourage them where possible.
  10. Don’t allow diseased and spent foliage to gather around vegetable plants since they will cause harm.

  1. In hot weather give plenty of water to plants in containers and baskets. Apply a balanced liquid fertiliser every two weeks.
  2. For effective watering during warm, dry weather make tiny pools around individual plants so that the water penetrates deeply into the soil. If you merely wet the surface then the water is being wasted, weeds will be encouraged and plants will become more vulnerable due to ‘surface rooting.’
  3. Now that frosts are unlikely you can plant out annual summer bedding plants as well as containers, hanging baskets, courgettes, squashes, tomatoes and sweetcorn. Anything which has been grown in greenhouses can be moved outside to its final position.
  4. Once sweet peas have started flowering keep picking them to encourage more blooms.
  5. Lift and divide overcrowded clusters of bulbs.
  6. If the leaves of onions and garlic are turning yellow and starting to die back then it means that they are ready for harvesting.
  7. Prune plum and cherry trees and, where possible, protect other fruit bushes with netting. Top-dress patio fruit trees with fresh compost and slow release fertiliser.
  8. On hot days make sure that greenhouses are well ventilated and dampened.
  9. If weeds are a problem on your lawn then use lawn weed killer and encourage healthy growth with lawn fertiliser.
  10. There is still time to sow runner beans. Plant them directly into the ground.

  1. Ponds: feed fish little but often. Remove duckweed and blanketweed and cut back overgrown submerged oxygenators. Removed weeds should be left by the pondside to allow any extracted pond creatures to return to the water.
  2. Lawns: apply an effective weed-and-feed. Sowing new seed and repairing bare patches can still be done early in the month. Newly-sown grass should be allowed to grow to 3” in height before cutting with the mower blades set high.
  3. Greenhouses: use blinds or shade paint to help maintain an even temperature. Ventilate on warm days and damp down on hot days to deter red-spider mites and increase humidity.
  4. Give young fruit trees plenty of water and remove blossom and fruits from newly-planted trees so that they become firmly established during their first year.
  5. Protect soft fruit plants with fleece or netting.
  6. Remove weeds from around onions and garlic and apply an onion fertilizer.
  7. Pinch out the growing points of broad beans as soon as beans appear at the base of the plant. This will help to deter blackfly.
  8. When harvesting rhubarb pick only one third of the number of stems.
  9. Feed and water container plants and apply a balanced liquid feed every 2 to 4 weeks.
  10. Allow the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs to die back naturally without cutting off or tying over.
  1. Prepare beds for the growing season by digging in at least 5 cms of compost or well-rotted manure. General purpose fertilisers such as pellets of chicken manure or fish, blood and bone can also be used. Thoroughly weed vegetable beds and cover with plastic sheeting to preserve warmth and dryness.
  2. Before the onset of hot weather mulch perennials, trees and shrubs with organic matter but avoid mulching around the trunks of trees.
  3. Evergreen shrubs and trees can be moved if the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
  4. Apply a slow-release fertiliser to trees, shrubs, hedges, fruit bushes and raspberry canes and use fleece to protect fruit blossoms from late frosts.
  5. Make sure that tree ties are not cutting into the trunks and loosen any which may appear too tight.
  6. Divide:
    • perennials [to improve strength and create new plants];
    • hostas [before they come into leaf];
    • primroses [after flowering].
  7. Chitted potatoes can now be planted outside or in growbags. Crops such as parsnips, cabbages and radishes can be sown directly into the ground.
  8. Thin-out carrot seedlings for good-sized crops. This is best done during evenings when there are fewer carrot flies about.
  9. Thoroughly clean out greenhouses with hot, soapy water in order to kill pests and to let in more light.
  10. Lawns: if sowing new seed or laying new turf maintain moisture until they are well-established. On existing lawns repair bare patches, apply nitrogen fertiliser or, if moss and weeds are a problem, apply a special lawn weed-killer. On dry days brush away any worm cast.

  1. Begin weeding as soon as possible since the sooner you start, the easier it is to keep them under control.
  2. Top-up raised beds with compost and good quality topsoil.
  3. Make sure that any soil in containers has not dried out and then top dress by removing the first 1”/2.5 cms. of soil and replace with fresh compost. After buying new compost store it in a cool, dry place, ready for the coming season. Two weeks or so before use put it in your greenhouse, if you have one, so that it can warm up. On warmer days ventilate the greenhouse and any cold frames.
  4. Lawns: Choose a dry day for the first cutting and set the mower blades higher than normal. New turf can be laid if the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. If you intend to grow a lawn from seed then prepare the soil now so that it has time to set before sowing.
  5. Asparagus: plant from crowns after weeding and mulching the beds, weeding by hand since asparagus has shallow roots. The trench should be 20 to 25 cms. deep and 30 cms. wide, filled with well-rotted compost which is mixed with 85 gr./sq. metre of blood, fish and bone or bonemeal. The crowns should be 45 cms. apart with the roots spread out before covering with sieved soil. Make sure that any emerging buds are just below the soil level.
  6. Deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved now as long as the soil is not frozen or waterlogged.
  7. Erect plant supports now so that the plants grow through them. Waiting until the plants have grown somewhat makes placing the supports difficult.
  8. Roses: as they grow feed them  with a special rose feed or a balanced fertilizer and prune them to encourage good growth. Bare-root roses should also be planted now.
  9. Warmer weather will attract slugs to new soft growth. Be on the lookout and ready to take appropriate action against them.
  10. Protect the blossoms on apricot, peach and nectarine trees against frost by using horticultural fleece or some other appropriate screening.

  1. At this time of the year please consider the needs of birds in your garden by trimming deciduous hedges before the nesting season starts and by providing plenty of food and water to help the birds through winter so that they in turn can help you by feeding on garden pests.
  2. Cutting back vines such as Virginia Creeper, Ivy and Boston Ivy will help to keep windows, gutters and roof tiles free from obstruction.
  3. Woody prunings are slow to decompose so shred them or cut them into small pieces before adding them to compost piles.
  4. Prune or cut back the following:                          
    • Wisteria [cut back summer sideshoots to 2 or 3 buds];                  
    • Shrubs such as cornus or salix cultivars [prune to their bases]                         
    • Overwintered fuchsias [prune to 1 or 2 buds on each shoot];                         
    • Winter-flowering jasmins [ cut back to 5 cms from old wood ];                         
    • Winter-flowering shrubs [prune after flowering has finished];                         
    • Winter-flowering heathers [ trim flowers as they fade so that the plants don’t become ‘leggy’];                          
    • Winter pansies [remove winter flowers so that the plants don’t set seed. This will help to produce new flowers when the weather warms up].
  5. Look out for hellebore leaf-spot [rounded brown spots on the leaves] and remove affected leaves.
  6. Mulch perennial vegetables such as artichokes and asparagus with well-rotted manure or compost.
  7. Raised beds are useful if you are on heavy clay soil and want to make an early start to this year’s gardening.
  8. Remove weeds from vegetable seed beds and fork in plenty of compost. Black plastic sheeting over the soil will help it to warm up more quickly and to stay dry until it is time for planting.
  9. Start chitting early potatoes by standing them upright in a tray or egg box and leaving them in a bright, cool but frost-free place.
  10. Sowing too many seeds in your greenhouse is not advisable this early since low light levels will result in plants becoming ‘leggy.’ Later sowings will develop quite adequately.

  1. If you have a natural Christmas tree, once the season is over you can shred it for compost or strip off the branches to make pea sticks.
  2. Attract birds to your garden by providing ample food and water. They will help you by feeding on garden pests.
  3. Carefully watch any dahlia tubers, fruits and vegetables which you may have in storage over winter and remove anything which shows signs of disease or rotting.
  4. When planning your vegetable plot for the coming year ensure adequate rotation so that pests and diseases do not accumulate in the soil. If you intend planting anything for early harvesting then place  plastic sheeting over the soil in order to warm it up.
  5. Start forcing rhubarb by covering the crowns with an upturned bucket or something similar.
  6. Fruit bushes: order new ones now and plant them in a well-prepared sheltered bed. New raspberry canes should be planted on sunny well-drained sites.
  7. For a very early potato crop begin growing them under covered containers. On cold nights protect potato grow-bags with horticultural fleece if you don’t have heating in your greenhouse.
  8. Prune wisteria and roses now. New bare-root roses can be planted in a sunny location for a summer display.
  9. When cutting off the old stems of perennials such as sedum take care not to damage the new growth.
  10. Cold-weather precautions:-
  •   Don’t allow snow to accumulate on greenhouse roofs;
  •  Make sure that tender plants are moved inside to a warmer environment;
  •  Use bubble-wrap, hessian or fleece  to protect containers which are not frostproof.
  • Grouping pots by a south-facing wall can also provide some protection;
  • If newly-planted trees, hedges and shrubs have had their roots loosened and lifted by cold weather then re-firm them and provide temporary  wind breaks.
  • Branches can be packed with dry straw and covered with fleece while roots can be protected by thick, dry mulches.
  • Wooden frames with polythene covering are also useful but make sure that the plants do not touch the polythene since condensation can freeze and cause damage.
  1. Prune:
    • Wisteria – cut back side shoots to 2 or 3 buds;
    • Climbing Roses- cut off any diseased or damaged growth, tie new shoots to supports, and prune older, flowered side shoots to one third of their original length;  
    •   Japanese maple and vines – do them immediately otherwise the sap will bleed if done later.
  2. Gather containers of shrubs and bedding plants into groups in a sheltered location in order to avoid frost damage to the root systems.
  3. Spread fresh gravel or grit around alpine plants.
  4. Check tree ties and stakes to ensure security against winter winds. Tighten or loosen as required.
  5. Wash and disinfect bird feeders and feeding tables. Provide a bird bath by using a large inverted plant saucer or a dustbin lid with a stone in the middle to act as a perch. Place it on some bricks in an open, flat area where you can watch the birds and away from any concealed areas from which a cat may strike. Use tap or rain water and regularly clean it out and replenish with fresh clean water.
  6. If you have a compost bin try to turn the contents to aid decomposition. [If you haven’t a compost bin then it’s useful to obtain one or find a suitable area for depositing compostable material]. Cover the contents with a strip of old carpet or plastic sheeting so that decomposition is not held back by excess cold or wet. N.B. I’m informed that ‘Quality Street’ sweet wrappers are compostable so don’t throw them into the refuse bin.
  7. Prune fruit trees but NOT those bearing stone fruits e.g. plum, cherry. Apply gluebands or greasebands to their trunks to stop winter moths from laying eggs in the branches.
  8. Protect the tips of fig tree branches by covering them with fleece or straw so that next year’s fruits are not killed by frost.
  9. Replace strawberry plants which are more than 3 years old since they can harbour diseases and become less productive.
  10. Greenhouses: clean and disinfect all parts of the structure;                             
    •  keep their interiors as dry as possible by watering plants sparingly;                              
    • ventilate on warmer days;                               
    • in snowy weather don’t allow snow to accumulate on top of the glass.                              
    • If you are cultivating poinsettias protect them from cold draughts and allow them to dry out slightly between waterings so that they will last beyond Christmas and into the new year.
  1. Fruit trees: apply glue / grease bands to the trunks of fruit trees to stop wingless female moths climbing the trunk and laying eggs in the branches; prune pear and apple trees between now and February but not plum trees.
  2. Lift parsnips after the first frosts when their flavour will have been sweetened.
  3. Divide mature clumps of rhubarb once they become dormant.
  4. Currant bushes can be planted while they are dormant.
  5. If you can obtain fresh manure, spread it over your vegetable plots so that it rots down during winter.
  6. For winter colour plant heathers, grasses and trailing ivy in pots.
  7. For next spring plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips; bedding displays of pansies, violas and primulas; and a magnolia tree.
  8. Cut back yellowing foliage of herbaceous perennials and lift and divide over-crowded clumps to maintain their vigour.
  9. If any of your roses suffered from blackspot or rust then gather up fallen leaves from around their bases in order to reduce the possibility of infection next year.    
  10. Lift dahlia tubers, begonias, and gladioli corms for dry storage during winter. Remove dead foliage before storing.

  1. Re-use as a garden mulch  spent compost from the containers of annual displays. Also sweep up any debris and fallen leaves which might harbour fungal spores, slugs and snails.
  2. Provide compost bins for collecting fallen leaves and remains of dead plants. Leaves from oak, hornbeam and alder trees will rot down in about 12 months but beech, sycamore, horse and sweet chestnut require 2 years.
  3. If you are planning to have a bonfire of twigs and prunings keep them dry by covering them with plastic sheets. However, before lighting the bonfire MAKE SURE THAT NO HEDGEHOGS ARE TAKING REFUGE INSIDE.
  4. If you have a pond lay a net across it to stop fallen leaves from accumulating. If you are cleaning out pond weed lay it by the side of the pond so that any wildlife can return to the water.
  5. Clean out water butts ready for refilling by the autumn rains.
  6. Use a coldframe to protect young  plants from extreme cold.
  7. Check stored onions and potatoes and remove any rotten ones straightaway. In the case of onions the rot usually starts at the neck of the bulb. Use onion bags and hessian sacks for the respective crops since these will promote better air circulation.
  8. Lift and move any dormant plants which you wish to re-locate.
  9. Mount plant pots off the floor to prevent waterlogging.
  10. Maintain birdbaths and feeders, ensuring that they are regularly cleaned and re-supplied with fresh contents. Don’t allow food to remain untouched inside feeders for long periods since this can encourage mould and disease. Birds are valuable allies against garden pests so always encourage them.

  1. Dead head: hanging baskets, container plants, annuals, perennials, penstemons, dahlias and roses.
  2. Prune climbing and rambling roses [but not late-flowering ones] and late-flowering shrubs.
  3. Plant: autumn-flowering plants e.g. sedum and chrysanthemum, in order to maintain border colour; hyacinth and amaryllis bulbs for forcing to provide a colourful bloom at Christmas; spring-flowering bulbs; biennial plants such as foxgloves and wallflowers.
  4. Water well: camellias and  rhododendrons [to help the good development of next year’s buds]; French and runner beans.
  5. Potatoes: remove ground-level foliage from maincrop potatoes 3 weeks before lifting so that blight spores do not infect the tubers when lifting takes place and also so that the skins will become firm. Newly-dug potatoes should be spread out to dry before being stored in a cool and dark location. Storing them in hessian sacks will allow them to breathe before being consumed but make sure that you don’t include damaged or rotting tubers since these will infect the rest of the crop.
  6. Start planting autumn onions and, at the end of the month, plant garlic bulbs for next year’s crop.
  7. Remove rotting fruit from your bushes to avoid further contamination.
  8. Plant new strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and currant bushes since this is best done during their dormant season.
  9. Greenhouses: empty used pots since old compost and plant remains can harbour diseases. Don’t put discarded waste in compost bins since the spores can survive to be replanted later. Instead put it in your household waste bin or burn it;
    • Clean out the interior of your greenhouse;
    • Remove shading from the glass to allow maximum light;
    • Water early in the morning so that the interior is dry by evening and there is no residual damp to encourage botrylis;
    • Close vents and doors by late afternoon so that warmth is maintained inside which will help plants to crop as late as possible.
  10. Lawns: now is the time to aerate them, remove any thatch and repair bare patches. Afterwards, apply a top dressing. You can also feed your lawn with an autumn fertiliser.  
  1. Water well:
    • Camellias and rhododendrons so that next year’s buds develop well;
    • Patio container plants – feed these fortnightly with liquid fertiliser.
  2. Dead-head: bedding and perennial plants to stop self-seeding and for better flowering into autumn;
    • Lilies – for better flowering next year.
  3. Cut back: faded perennials- to keep borders tidy;
    • Penstemons- encourage more flowers by cutting back to just above a leaf;
    • Herbs- to encourage tasty leaves for harvesting just before the frosts arrive.
  4. Trim border plants after their final flowerings so that they remain compact.
  5. Prune:
    • Summer-flowering shrubs after they have finished blooming;
    • Wisteria-after flowering remove whippy side shoots from main branches down to about 20 cms from the base;
    • Climbing and rambling roses- but not if they are of the repeat-flowering types.
  6. Water fruit and vegetable plants daily in warm weather.
  7. Tomatoes: feed with tomato fertiliser and remove leaves from lower down for better air circulation and to prevent disease. Pinch out the plant tips to concentrate the growth into the fruits which have already formed, leaving 5 or 6 trusses of fruit per plant.
  8. Pinch out: aubergines, once 5 or 6 fruits have formed then pick the fruits while they are young and shiny;
    • Squashes- once 3 well-formed fruits have been established, pinch out any surplus.
  9. If you have a surplus of autumn raspberries, loganberries or blackberries then freeze them on a tray before bagging them up for consumption during winter.
  10. Ponds: remove floating weed, algae and, before they go to seed, irises and bulrushes.
  1. Check greenhouse plants daily and water either in early morning or late evening to avoid excessive evaporation. Tidy up fallen leaves or flowers to prevent fungal diseases.
  2. Cut back:
    • faded perennials for tidy borders;
    • penstemons [cut back to just above a bud to encourage more flowers];
    • flowers in hanging baskets [then feed them well afterwards];
    • hardy geraniums and delphiniums.
  3. Prune:
    • Wisteria [remove lean side-shoots from the main branches to about 20 cms from their base];
    • Lupins; deciduous magnolia.
  4. Divide clumps of bearded iris so that they can form roots and flower buds for next year before the onset of winter.
  5. Deadhead: bedding and perennial plants; roses; sweet peas.
  6. Plant second-cropping potatoes now for a Christmas harvest. Use pots or bags so that they can be brought under cover before the first frosts arrive.
  7. To maximise space don’t allow cucumbers to trail along the ground. Instead, tie their long stems to vertical wires or to wigwam poles.
  8. Pinch the growing tips from:
    • Aubergines [harvest in mid-late summer after they have produced 5 or 6 fruits and pick while the fruits are still young];
    • Squashes and courgettes [to encourage branching];
    • Tomato side-shoots [cut off leaves which are below the lowest ripening fruit trusses so that better air circulation will prevent disease].
  9. Thin-out fruits on fruit trees for good-sized crops and to prevent brown rot.
  10. If you have fruiting plants in containers, a high potash feed will help them maintain good health and productiveness.
  1.      Now that the frost risk is over, the following plantings can take place: annual summer bedding plants; containers, hanging baskets and planters [these should be watered well in hot weather and given a balanced liquid fertiliser every 2 to 4 weeks]. If any of these preceding items are still in your greenhouse they can be taken outside to their final position.
  2.      Cut back bulb foliage after it has died back naturally.
  3.      Lift and divide clumps of: snowdrops and bluebells [once the leaves start to yellow] and overcrowded bulb clusters.
  4.      Keep newly-planted trees and shrubs well-watered to aid their establishment.
  5.      Stake tall or floppy perennial plants to prevent wind damage.
  6.      Onions and garlic will be ready for harvesting once their leaves are yellowing and dying back.
  7.      Fruit trees: start to prune plum and cherry trees now and thin out congested branches of other fruit trees in order to encourage bigger and better fruits.
  8.      Check for the following pests:
    •           white, powdery mildew – remove affected parts if possible and spray with a fungicide to prevent further spreading;
    •           aphids on leaf-undersides – rub them off by hand or spray them with insecticide to prevent their multiplying;
    •           scarlet lily beetles – remove and crush. Also check for the sticky, brown larvae on the undersides of the leaves;
    •           vine weevils – tip the plants out of their pots and look for ‘c’ – shaped creamy maggots among the roots. Treat any that are present with nematodes.
    •           slugs – repel them with, preferably, a non-toxic repellant.
  9.      Remember to keep bird baths topped up, especially in hot weather.
  10.      Remove blanketweed from ponds to allow fish and plants to breathe.
  1. Trim evergreen hedges.
  2. Ponds: feed fish little and often; remove duckweed and blanket weed and cut excessive growth from submerged oxygenators. Lay cuttings by the side of the pond overnight so that insects, snails and other pond inhabitants can return to the water.
  3. Lawns: apply lawn weed-killer and encourage strong growth with high-nitrogen fertiliser; water during hot weather, particularly if newly-seeded or newly-turfed in which case do not allow them to dry out; newly-sown grass can be mowed with high-set blades when it reaches 3” height while established lawns can now be mowed with the blades at normal summer height; sowing new seed and repairing bare patches can still be carried out.
  4. Greenhouses: ventilate glass houses on warm days and damp them down to increase humidity and deter red spider mites; use blinds or shade paint to avoid wide temperature fluctuations; monitor pest levels such as whitefly by hanging fly traps throughout the greenhouse.
  5. Harden off half-hardy bedding plants ready for outdoor conditions by leaving them outside during daytime and then returning them to cover at night over 7 to 10 days before permanently planting them out. Newly-planted pots and baskets of summer bedding plants can also be hardened off but in cold areas delay planting out until June when outdoor tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins can also go out after being similarly hardened-off. Brassicas and leeks can be planted out now.
  6. Plant glasshouse tomatoes in beds or growing bags.
  7. Fruit trees: keep young ones well-watered during periods of rapid growth; remove blossom and fruit from newly-planted trees so that they establish themselves firmly during their first year; use pheromone traps to reduce codling moth in apple trees, and use it in plum trees from May to August to monitor plum fruit-moth activity.
  8. Soft fruits: protect from birds with netting and use straw to further protect strawberries; check gooseberry bushes for sawfly caterpillars.
  9. Harvest asparagus spears when no taller than 18 cms. and harvest rhubarb by picking only one third of the total stems.
  10. Don’t let up on weeding! Weeds will consume precious light, water and nutrients.

  1. Wash out your greenhouse with hot, soapy water to kill pests and diseases and to let in more light.
  2. Sow tomato seeds indoors ready for planting out after the risk of frosts has passed.
  3. Sow half-hardy annual seeds under cover, making sure that they’re not exposed to frosts. As soon as the seedlings show their first proper leaves transfer them to pots or modules for growing-on.
  4. Lawns: whether growing from seed or laying new turf, maintain moisture either until the seeds have germinated or until the turf has established itself; repair bare patches; brush away worm casts; apply high-nitrogen fertiliser and lawn weed-killer; aerate compacted areas by spiking; mow with lowered blades towards the end of the month.
  5. Enrich strawberry beds with well-rotted manure and cover the plants with cloches if you want an early crop.
  6. Apply a slow – release fertiliser to all fruit trees and bushes.
  7. Plant chitted potatoes either into the ground or into growbags.
  8. Trees and shrubs: mulch them with organic matter before the hot weather arrives and lightly fork a balanced, slow-release fertiliser into the soil surface. Make sure that any tree ties are not cutting into the trunk and loosen them if necessary.
  9. Tie-in new stems of honeysuckle and clematis to train them along their supports now that they are growing.
  10. Divide: perennial plants; hostas, before they come into leaf; primroses, after they finish flowering.
  1. Lawns: re-cut their edges if necessary and consider lawn-edging strips to make future maintenance easier. If you intend to grow a lawn from seed then prepare the soil now so that it has time to settle before sowing.
  2. Re-surface paths before they become overgrown, and clean slimy patches from patio and paving surfaces.
  3. Top-up raised beds with good quality compost and topsoil. Similarly top-dress containers by removing the top 1”/2.5 cms. of soil and replacing it with fresh compost. Make sure that any remaining soil hasn’t dried out.
  4. Buy fresh compost and store it in a cool, dry place ready for the coming season. Place bags of compost in the greenhouse about 2 weeks before you intend to use them. Also see if there is suitable compost in your bin.
  5. Remove any netting which you may have put down over your pond during autumn and winter.
  6. If your soil is workable dig-in at least 5 cms. of compost or well-rotted manure; you can also add general-purpose fertilisers such as pelleted chicken manure or fish, blood and bone. Remove weeds from vegetable seed beds and cover the area with plastic sheeting to keep it dry and to warm it up.
  7. Begin chitting seed potatoes on delivery, ready for early planting in the ground before the end of the month.
  8. If the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged you can plant onion, shallots and garlic sets. If the ground is not yet suitable then pot-up the sets into individual pots ready to be transplanted outdoors later.
  9. Plant fruit trees such as apple and cherry in a sunny, sheltered place and mulch existing fruit trees with rotted manure or garden compost, taking care not to mulch up around the trunk. New raspberry canes can also be planted.
  10. Rhubarb: plant fresh crowns now and mulch existing ones with well-rotted manure to keep them healthy and to reduce moisture-loss through the soil. Take care not to cover the crowns.
  1. Trim deciduous hedges before birds start nesting.
  2. Cut back vines such as Ivy, Virginia Creeper and Boston Ivy to keep them clear of windows, gutters and roof tiles.
  3. Before adding woody cuttings to compost bins shred or cut them up since they are slow to decompose.
  4. Rainwater is particularly useful for feeding acid-loving ericaceous plants [tap water is often slightly alkaline] so install water butts if you haven’t already done so.
  5. Don’t be tempted to sow too many seeds in your greenhouse at this time since they will become ‘leggy’ due to insufficient natural light. Later sowings will catch up and grow just as quickly.
  6. Prune the following:
    •                 Wisteria – cut back summer side shoots to two or three buds;
    •                 Summer-flowering clematis before active growth begins;
    •                 Comus and salix cultivars to their bases;
    •                 Over-wintered fuchsias to one or two buds on each plant;
    •                 Winter-flowering jasmine to 5 cms .from old wood;
    •                 Winter-flowering shrubs such as viburnum and mahonia.
  7. Before growth begins cut back old foliage from ornamental grasses to within a few cms. of the ground; trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers disappear; remove faded flowers from winter pansies to stop them setting seed.
  8. Sow vegetable seeds such as leeks, onions and celeriac under cover.
  9. Raspberry canes and stone-fruit trees can be planted now.
  10. Mulch perennial vegetables such as asparagus and artichokes with well-rotted manure or garden compost.
  1. It goes without saying that we are in the midst of the season when we expect exceptionally cold weather. If you have tender plants which cannot be left outside, even with protection, they should now be in a greenhouse or a conservatory. Those plants that are able to withstand cold conditions when left outside should nevertheless be protected with either straw or fleece.
  2. Containers which are not frost-proof, such as terracotta pots, should be protected with either bubble-wrap, hessian or fleece to prevent cracking. Additional protection can be obtained by grouping such pots close to a south-facing wall if this is possible.
  3. Newly-planted trees, hedges and shrubs can suffer from loosened and lifted roots caused by cold winds and frosts. If this happens, begin by gently re-firming them into the ground then, if there is no natural shelter for them, erect a temporary netting windbreak. Protect roots with a thick, dry mulch and cover branches with fleece. For particularly tender plants pack the branches with dry straw before applying the fleece. After snowfalls brush fallen snow from hedges and conifers so that their branches don’t break under the weight.
  4. Evergreens can be protected by placing them inside a wooden frame with a clear polythene covering stretched over the top so that they continue to benefit from full daylight. Take care that the polythene doesn’t touch any leaves otherwise resulting condensation could cause freezing and rotting.
  5. Plants which have suffered from winter damage can be boosted when they re-grow in the spring by applying a mulch of compost along with some fertiliser.
  6. Remove faded flowers from winter pansies so that they don’t set seed.
  7. Cut back old stems of perennials such as sedum but take care not to harm new growth.
  8. Prune the summer side shoots on wisteria to two or three buds and cut back rose bushes to just above a bud, removing any dead or crossed branches.
  9. If you plan to grow early peas then place a cloche over the soil to allow the ground to warm up for a few weeks before sowing.
  10. Cover rhubarb crowns with an upturned bucket or bin in order to force the growth of the tender pink stems.

  1. Group outdoor potted plants together in a sheltered spot for protection from winter weather.
  2. Check tree-ties and stakes to make sure that the trees are still secure after strong winds. Tighten or loosen the ties as required. Similarly check that climbers are also secured to supports with plant-ties.
  3. Cover compost with old strips of carpet or plastic sheeting so that it doesn’t become too cold and wet and stop rotting.
  4. Harvest holly and berries for Christmas decorations and keep them in a bucket of water before using them.
  5. Dig over and manure empty borders.
  6. Cover heavy clay soil with polythene to keep it dry and to enable winter digging.
  7. If you strawberry plants are more than 3 years old then order new runners.
  8. Thoroughly clean all parts of your greenhouse and ventilate it on milder days. Check that any plants which you keep in there are not attacked by aphids which should then be removed by hand or with an appropriate pesticide.
  9. Carefully plan your vegetable garden for next year so that you ensure good crop rotation to avoid pests and diseases.
  10. Wash and disinfect capillary netting before storing it.
  1. Used pots, seed trays and containers should be washed and dried to avoid the possibility of overwintering pests and diseases infecting next year’s plants.
  2. Before storing canes let them dry out so that they last longer.
  3. Outdoor potted plants should be placed on raised supports so that they don’t become waterlogged.
  4. Start a new compost heap. Cover existing ones with old carpet to maintain warmth and encourage decomposition. Keep weeding if they are still actively growing.
  5. Deciduous trees and shrubs can be pruned and even moved, and evergreen shrubs and conifers can be planted. Hardwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs and trees can be taken and they should be allowed to take root either in a sheltered outdoor spot or in a coldframe. Pear and apple trees can also be pruned between now and February but leave plum trees until midsummer.
  6. Take root cuttings from fleshy rooted herbaceous perennials to increase your stock. Allow them to root in a coldframe or in a cold greenhouse.
  7. As the weather gets colder make sure that bird tables and feeders are provided with adequate food. If you’re planning to have a bonfire do check that there are no hedgehogs or other creatures sheltering there.
  8. Make sure that in colder weather you do not over-water indoor plants. Little and often is the best policy.
  9. Plant spring-flowering bulbs, spring bedding displays of pansies, violas and primulas, bare-root roses and magnolia trees. For winter colour plant heathers, grasses and trailing ivy.
  10. Spread fresh manure over the surfaces of vegetable beds so that it rots down during winter.

OCTOBER 2023

  1. If your summer flower containers are past their best then re-plant them with fresh winter bedding-plants.
  2. Now is a good time to move trees and shrubs and to plant hedges.
  3. Roses: prune both climbers and ramblers after they have finished flowering and tie the stems to avoid damage from winter storms.
  4. After harvesting peas and beans cut away the plant at ground level, leaving the roots in the soil so that they release nitrogen as they decompose.
  5. Harvest squashes and pumpkins before the first frosts make them mushy.
  6. Plant autumn garlic bulbs and onion sets for good crops next summer.
  7. Citrus trees should be moved indoors to a bright and frost-free location [4 -12C]. Water less during winter but don’t allow them to dry out.
  8. Divide congested rhubarb clumps by digging them up and then splitting them into several pieces with a spade before re-planting the healthiest members.
  9. Clean and disinfect your greenhouse and remove any shading so that as much light as possible can enter. Make sure that any plants which you bring in are clean and disease-free.
  10. Fresh turf can be laid now. Autumn rains will ensure that it settles well.  

SEPTEMBER 2023

  1. For continued flowering throughout autumn dead-head: penstemons, dahlias, roses, annuals, perennials, hanging-basket and container plants.
  2. Take advantage of autumn rainfall to plant new perennials as well as new trees and shrubs. Camellias and rhododendrons should also be kept well-watered for good development of next year’s buds as should new divisions of herbaceous perennials.
  3. For Christmas colour plant hyacinth and amaryllis bulbs for forcing.
  4. Cordon tomato plants should be pinched-out by now to encourage ripe fruits.
  5. To test if sweetcorn is ripe pinch a kernel and it should release a milky sap. If the kernels are watery then they need more time to ripen but if they are starchy then it is too late.
  6. Maincrop potatoes: 3 weeks before lifting cut off the foliage at ground level so that the tubers are not affected by blight spores on lifting and so that the skins will become more firm. Newly-dug potatoes should be spread out to dry for a few hours before being stored where it is cool and dark. Store them in hessian sacks or paper so that they can breathe but make sure that none of them is diseased or damaged otherwise you could lose the entire crop.
  7. Order strawberry, raspberry, blackberry or currant bushes since they are best planted during their dormant season.
  8. Strawberries: pot-up runners for extra plants next year; plant out rooted runners for a good crop next year; clear away used straw since it can harbour pests and diseases over winter.
  9. Remove rotting pears, apples and plums from their trees otherwise they will spread disease if left in place.
  10. As a further precaution against pests and diseases clean out your greenhouse and used plant pots.

AUGUST 2023

  1. Ensure plenty of water for camellias and rhododendrons [so that next year’s buds develop well] and patio container plants [supplemented with a fortnightly liquid fertiliser feed].
  2. Stake tall/top-heavy lilies and dahlias to prevent wind and rain damage. Lilies should also be dead-headed for a better display next year.
  3. Dead-head bedding and perennial plants to prevent self-seeding and to encourage autumn flowering.
  4. Trim/cut back: lavenders; faded perennials; penstemon [cut back to just above a leaf]; herbs [to encourage new and tasty leaves before the first frosts or to dry and freeze for later use]; summer-flowering shrubs; wisteria; climbing roses; and mow wild flower meadows to help seed dispersal.
  5. Tomatoes: feed with a tomato fertiliser. Removing leaves lower down the plant will improve air circulation and prevent diseases. Pinch out the tops to concentrate the growth in already-formed fruits and leave 5 or 6 trusses of fruit per plant.
  6. Onions, shallots and garlic can be lifted and dried once the foliage has yellowed and flopped. Store in onion bags to prevent mould.
  7. Runner beans: pick regularly to avoid stringiness and to encourage developing pods. Allowing them to set seed will reduce your crop.
  8.  Pests: destroy plants affected by tomato or potato blight. Destroy cabbage-white butterfly eggs if you find any under brassica leaves. Clear away diseased and dying foliage from vegetable plots.
  9. Strawberries: tidy the plants and remove any straw for better ventilation and pest control. Plant out any rooted strawberry runners for a good crop next year.
  10. Prune fruited blackcurrant stems after harvesting and cut back fruited summer raspberry canes, leaving new green shots for next year.

JULY 2023

  1. CUT BACK the following for new growth:
    • Faded Perennials –  to keep borders tidy;
    • Penstemon – cut back to just above a bud;
    • Hanging Baskets – feed plants well afterwards;
    • Hardy Geraniums & Delphiniums
  2. CLIMBING PLANTS: tie them in and train them for new growth.
  3. PRUNE THE FOLLOWING:
    • Wisteria – remove whippy side-shoots from the main branches;
    • Lupins;
    • Deciduous Magnolia
  4. BEARDED IRIS: divide them now so that there is time to form next year’s roots and flower buds before winter intervenes.
  5. CUTTINGS: take these now from your favourite tender plants for over-wintering indoors. You can also still take cuttings from shrubs and herbaceous perennials.
  6. DEAD HEAD the following:
    • Roses – leave flowers in place if the hips are attractive.
    • Sweet Peas – also water them daily in hot weather.
  7. PINCH OUT/NIP OFF the growing tips of the following:
    • Aubergines – once they have formed 5/6 fruits. Pick the fruits while they are young starting in mid to late summer;
    • Squash and Courgettes;
    • Tomatoes – remove side shoots each week. Cut off any leaves which grow below the lowest ripening fruit trusses in order to improve air circulation and to deter diseases. Apply a dilute tomato fertiliser once per week. 
  8. Protect developing fruits from birds and squirrels by surrounding them with netting. 
  9. Summer is the best time to prune APRICOT, PEACH & CHERRY trees in order to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. 
  10. POSSIBLE PESTS: 
    • Powdery Mildew in plants;
    • Aphids on the undersides of leaves;
    • Scarlet Lily Beetle;
    • Vine Weevil –  these can cause plants to wilt. Tip the plant out of its pot and look for ‘C’ shaped creamy maggots among the roots. These should be treated with nematodes;
    • Slugs – use ‘Sluggone’ pellets. 

JUNE 2023

  1. Now that the risk of frosts has passed plant out annual summer bedding plants as well as containers, hanging baskets, and planters. Anything which has been grown-on in a greenhouse can now be moved to its final position outside. Half-hardy bedding plants can be hardened-off in a greenhouse in preparation for being outdoors. Any plants remaining in a greenhouse should be checked daily and watered if the soil is dry.
  2. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of bulbs, particularly snowdrops and bluebells once the leaves start to turn yellow.
  3. Newly-planted trees and shrubs should be well-watered to aid establishment. Generally speaking, when watering wet the soil instead of the plant so that the water can soak in to a depth of several inches. Merely wetting the surface encourages weeds and can lead to surface rooting which will make the plant more vulnerable.
  4. If hanging-basket plants become leggy or ill shaped then trimming off the excess will encourage bushy growth.
  5. Pinch out side shoots from tomato plants. They can then be potted-up to create new plants. Feed the plant when the first truss starts setting fruit.
  6. Earth-up potato plants as they grow. If using growbags then add more compost to halfway up the plant stem.
  7. Pest controls: use horticultural fleece or enviromesh to protect against carrot fly and use cabbage collars to deter cabbage root fly. Use netting to protect fruit bushes from birds and squirrels.
  8. Fruit trees: prune plum and cherry trees now. Although some fruit trees will shed fruit naturally at this time [the ‘June drop’] thin out congested branches for bigger and better fruits.
  9. Greenhouses: open vents and doors on warm days; use blinds or shade paint to prevent over-heating when hot; damp down to increase humidity on hot days and to deter red-spider mites.
  10. If you are keen to attract butterflies to your garden you can do this by growing nectar-rich flowers which will bloom from spring until autumn. Butterflies prefer single open flowers and tubular flowers from which they draw nectar with their long tongues. They also like flowers in a sheltered, sunny location with clumps of the same species. For June flowers Butterfly Conservation recommend birds-foot trefoil, comfrey, granny’s bonnet, honeysuckle and thyme whilst for July to November you can provide catmint, globe thistle, ivy, Michaelmas daisy, scabious, vipers bugloss, holly and ivy [for the holly-blue butterfly], garlic mustard and lady’s smock. Further encouragement can come from nettles, thistles, large stones in sunny spots to encourage basking, and a source of water however small.

MAY 2023

  1. Keep a close watch for pests and diseases. Early prevention saves later action. Pick off any larvae of rosemary, viburnum or lily beetles and use a systemic fungicide against blackspot on roses. Watch out for sawfly caterpillars on gooseberry bushes and use horticultural fleece or mesh to protect vegetables and fruit bushes. Weeds will use up precious nutrients and water so don’t let them flourish.
  2. Harden-off pots and baskets of summer bedding plants, half-hardy plants, dahlias and tender exotics such as canna by leaving them outside during daytime and bringing them under cover at night so that they can be planted out when the risk of frosts has passed.
  3. Ponds: feed fish little and often. Remove duckweed and blanketweed and thin out submerged oxygenators. Leave extracted weeds by the pond overnight so that insects, snails and other pond life can return to the water.
  4. Trim evergreen hedges now.
  5. Top dress permanent pot plants to refresh the compost and water container plants as well as providing them with a balanced liquid feed every two to four weeks for healthy growth.
  6. When harvesting rhubarb pick only one third of the stems.
  7. Thin out directly-sown vegetables such as spinach, carrot and  lettuce before watering the rows.
  8. Broad beans: as soon as the first beans appear at the bottom of the plant pinch out the growing points to reduce the risk of blackfly.
  9. Pheromone traps: hang them in plum trees from May to August in order to monitor the plum fruit moth. Hang them in apple trees to reduce codling moths.
  10. Wait for newly-grown grass to reach three inches in height before mowing with blades on a high setting.

APRIL 2023

  1. Plant lily bulbs now for a summer display. If planted in pots they can be used for patio displays or for filling in gaps in borders. Half-fill a container of at least 30 cms./12” diameter with multi-purpose compost to accommodate 3 bulbs which should then be covered with more compost before watering in. Once shoots have appeared move to a sunny position and feed weekly with a liquid plant feed from the beginning of summer. This is also the time to plant gladiolus, ranunculus, herbaceous perennials and forced flower bulbs such as hyacinths and daffodils which have finished flowering.
  2. Prepare growing beds by digging in at least 5cms of compost, well-rotted manure or general purpose fertiliser such as pelleted chicken manure or fish, blood and bone. For vegetable seed beds remove all weeds and cover the prepared area with plastic sheeting to keep it dry and warm. Consider using raised beds if bending causes you problems.
  3. Use organic mulch for perennials, trees and shrubs before hot weather arrives and use a balanced slow-release fertiliser for trees, shrubs and hedges.
  4. Divide: perennial plants; hostas [before they come into leaf]; primroses [after they have finished flowering].
  5. Prune/trim: penstemon; forsythia; winter-flowering heathers; perennials and ornamental grasses; winter pansies.
  6. If using tree ties check that they are not cutting into the trunk and loosen them if necessary so that the trunk has room to expand.
  7. Vegetables: plant chitted potatoes into the ground or into potato grow-bags; thin-out carrot seedlings for good-sized carrots [do this preferably during evening time when fewer carrot flies are about]; many vegetables such as parsnips, cabbages and radishes can be planted directly into the ground at this time.
  8. Fruit trees: to prevent peach-leaf curl spray the emerging leaves of peach and nectarine trees and shelter them from rain. Mulch all fruit trees with well-rotted manure or compost, taking care not to mulch up onto the trunk. A slow-release fertiliser can help further and can be also be applied to raspberry canes and fruit bushes.
  9. Lawns: sow seeds in well-prepared soil and keep moist during germination; keep new lawn turf moist until it has become well-established; repair bare patches; apply nitrogen fertiliser for a new-season boost; use specialist weed killers to deal with moss and weeds; on dry days brush away worm casts; spike compacted areas for aeration.
  10. Eradicate pests and diseases at first signs.

MARCH 2023

  1. This is the time to order seeds and plug plants for attractive displays in containers and hanging baskets later in the year.
  2. Order fruit trees for spring planting. If you’re short of garden space then consider planting dwarf fruit trees.
  3. Top up containers and raised beds with compost and good quality topsoil. With containers, remove the top 1” of soil before replacing with fresh compost. Make sure that the remaining soil has not dried out. Buy a soil testing kit if you’re not sure of your soil type so that you can buy appropriate plants. If buying fresh compost, initially store it in a cool, dry place then warm it up in your greenhouse a week or two before planting. Also check your compost bin to see if any compost is ready for use.
  4. Lawns: Re-cut the edges if they are untidy. Lawn edging will make future maintenance easier. New turf can be laid if the ground is not frozen or waterlogged but if you are growing from seed then prepare the soil now so that it settles before sowing.
  5. Now is the time to plant the following: summer-flowering bulbs, e.g. gladiolus and lilies, into beds bulbs and containers; forced flower bulbs such as hyacinths and daffodils which have finished flowering; herbaceous perennials [established perennials can be lifted and divided for renewed vigour and additional plants]; bare-root roses and hardwood cuttings from last year.
  6. The following can now be sown: flower seeds for planting out in June; hardy annuals [these can be sown directly into the soil or into pots or module trays for planting out later in the spring; bedding plant seeds [sow them in your greenhouse for planting out after the last frosts].
  7. Plant onion, shallots and garlic sets as long as the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. Alternatively they can be potted for outdoor planting later.
  8. Protect apricot, peach and nectarine blossom from frost with a screen or with horticultural fleece.
  9. Mulch fruit trees with well-rotted manure or garden compost but don’t mulch up around the trunk. Mulch rhubarb to reduce moisture loss into the soil but leave the crown uncovered. Fresh rhubarb crowns can be planted now.
  10. Strawberries: for earlier fruiting either keep them inside the greenhouse or cover them with cloches.  

FEBRUARY 2023

  1. Hardwood cuttings taken last year may now need potting-on or planting.
  2. Rooted cuttings of tender perennials taken last summer can be potted-on.
  3. Remove hellebore leaves which have been affected by hellebore leaf spot [rounded brown spots].
  4. Start forcing rhubarb crowns for an early crop. New crowns can be planted at the moment.
  5. Start chitting early potatoes by standing them upright in a module tray or an egg box and then leaving them in a bright, cool and frost-free location. More generally, if your garden is short of vegetable space then try using potato grow-bags.
  6. If you want to make an early start to cultivation in an area with heavy clay soil then build raised beds prior to the growing season. The soil will warm-up more quickly and drain better.
  7. Trim deciduous hedges before the birds start to nest. Provide the birds with food and water since encouraging their presence will help to reduce garden pests.
  8. Cut back overgrown vines to keep windows, gutters and roof tiles clear.
  9. Make sure that empty pots have been cleaned with hot water and mild detergent and well rinsed afterwards.
  10. Don’t be tempted to sow too many seeds in your greenhouse at the present time since low light levels will make them leggy. Later sowings will grow well enough.

JANUARY 2023

  1. Prune: wisterias [cut back the summer side shoots to two or three buds] and, while dormant,  rose bushes [cut back to just above a bud and remove crossing or dead branches].
  2. Cut back/down: old foliage on ornamental grasses to within a few centimetres of the ground, and old stems of perennials such as sedum, taking care not to harm new growth.
  3. Remove: old hellebore leaves to make new blooms more visible during spring; damaged, diseased and oldest stems of brightly coloured willows whilst thinning out overcrowded stems; faded flowers from winter pansies so they don’t set seed.
  4. If you are planning to grow early peas then cover the soil with cloches so that it warms up during the weeks prior to sowing.
  5. Potatoes: for an early crop start growing in containers under cover. If your greenhouse has no heat then protect the grow bags with horticultural fleece on cold nights.
  6. Apple and pear trees can still be pruned while dormant, along with blackcurrant, gooseberry and redcurrant bushes. Stone-fruit trees should not be pruned until summertime. New fruit bushes can be ordered now for planting in a sheltered, well-prepared bed. Raspberry canes can be planted on sunny sites where there is free-draining soil.
  7. To prevent damage from heavy snow brush it off greenhouses, cold frames, hedges and conifers and don’t walk on snow/frost covered lawns since this can damage the underlying grass.
  8. Check stored items such as fruit, vegetables, and dahlia tubers and remove anything which shows signs of rotting.
  9. Plant trees and shrubs while they are still dormant.
  10. Remember to provide food and water for the birds which visit your garden. As well as being a pleasure to watch they will also feed on insect pests.

DECEMBER 2022

  1. Spread fresh gravel/grit around alpine plants.
  2. If Japanese maples/vines need pruning then do it now otherwise they will bleed sap if pruned later.
  3. Lift remaining leeks and parsnips before the ground freezes. Store them in an easily accessible trench from where they can be collected when needed.
  4. Remove yellowing leaves from winter brassicas since they may harbour pests and diseases. Cover the remaining crop with netting to deter pigeons.
  5. Keep fleece or straw handy to protect hardy salad crops, remaining celery crops and the tips of fig tree branches.
  6. Greenhouses: wash glass, floor, and staging with horticultural disinfectant; brush heavy snow of roofs and cold frames to prevent damage to glass; ventilate on warm days to reduce humidity and prevent disease; water plants sparingly in order to keep the atmosphere as dry as possible; look out for over-wintering aphids and remove either by hand or with a pest repellent.
  7. Wash and disinfect capillary matting before storing.
  8. Insulate outdoor taps or turn off at the mains.
  9. Lawns: spike them for better drainage and aeration; avoid walking on them when covered by snow or heavy frost otherwise the underlying grass can be damaged; remove fallen leaves to let in light and prevent dead patches; arrange for your mower and shears to be serviced and sharpened while they are little used.
  10. Plant bulbs in large pots of compost so that they are ready to fill in gaps in spring borders.

NOVEMBER 2022

  1. For spring displays plant hyacinth bulbs in pots as well as pansies, violas and primulas for spring borders. Now is also the time to plant magnolias and spring-flowering bulbs.
  2. Plant bare-root roses between now and March. If this year’s roses suffered from blackspot or rust then gather and dispose of the fallen leaves to reduce the risk of infection next year.
  3. Heathers, grasses and trailing ivy can be planted in pots for winter colour.
  4. Lift the following: dahlia tubers, begonias and gladiolus corms for dry storage during winter, removing any dead foliage beforehand; overcrowded clusters of herbaceous perennials which should also be divided, and yellowing foliage cut back in order to maintain their vigour.
  5. If you are planning to grow vegetables, then spread fresh manure over the plot surface so that it can rot down over winter. If you want to ease stress on your back, consider building raised beds.
  6. During their dormant periods divide mature rhubarb clumps and plant new currant bushes and raspberry canes.
  7. Prune pear and apple trees between now and February [trees bearing stone fruits such as plum and cherry should be pruned during the summer to avoid fungus]. Apply glue bands or grease bands to the trunks of fruit trees to deter wingless female winter moths from laying eggs in the branches.
  8. Aerate lawns before winter and keep them clear of leaves which should be gathered for compost.
  9. Check stored fruit and potatoes and remove any which show signs of rotting.
  10. Raise potted plants from the ground so that they don’t become waterlogged.

OCTOBER 2022

A month or two ago we were in the midst of a false autumn. Trees were losing their leaves much earlier than normal. But that was caused by the drought like conditions alone; now we are greeted by the real and more normal autumn. Newsletter editor Bill Hunt has put together the following tips which may help you focus on those garden jobs which now need some attention: –

  1. October is a good month for moving trees and shrubs and for planting hedges. It is also a good time for clematis plants and for relocating any dormant plants.
  2.  Prune climbing and rambling roses after they have finished flowering and tie in the stems to prevent wind damage.
  3.  Harvest squashes and pumpkins before the first frosts otherwise they will become mushy if left outside.
  4.  Remaining green tomatoes and peppers can be hung upside down indoors in order to ripen.
  5.  Plant autumn garlic bulbs and autumn onion sets for next summer’s crop.
  6.  Divide congested rhubarb clumps by digging them up and splitting them into several pieces. Replant those that look healthiest.
  7.  Spent compost from containers of annual displays can be used as a garden mulch.
  8.  Collect fallen leaves to make leaf mould for soil conditioning. Oak, alder and hornbeam should rot within twelve months but beech, sycamore, horse/sweet chestnut require two years. N.B. IF BURNING GARDEN RUBBISH CHECK FIRST FOR HEDGEHOGS.
  9.  Cover ponds with netting to keep out fallen leaves. If you are clearing out pond weed then lay it by the pond for a day so that any wildlife still contained can escape back to the water.
  10.  If you are leaving potted plants outside during winter then raise them above the ground on top of some sort of prop in order to prevent waterlogging.

This month our Top Ten Tips are supplemented by further advice from Chris Blom [Blomsbulbs.com] to whom we’re always thankful for his articles. Writing about the planting of bulbs in autumn he recommends being cautious that the soil is neither too wet nor too dry. The bulbs need to develop good root systems and they all have different requirements. While daffodils can be planted from mid-September onwards tulips should wait until mid-October since they do not come out of dormancy until soil temperatures begin to cool thus avoiding potential problems due to the spread of viruses. Although tulip bulbs have been available for some weeks they should be unpacked and then stored in a dry place until November which is the usual month for tulip planting. Other spring bulbs which will give pleasure are snowdrops, aconites, crocus, cyclamen, alliums and fritillaries. More ideas can be found in Chris Blom’s catalogue.

Chris’s catalogue is also where you can find advice on Christmas bulbs since late September onwards is the time for starting them. He advises that Christmas hyacinths prepared by his company are specially treated by a process which is not completed until early September and that bulbs offered before this time should be avoided. Although most Christmas bulbs are grown in bulb fibre hyacinths have, for a long time, been grown in water containers. If you are interested in trying this then the following advice is offered:

  1. Use only top-size bulbs since smaller bulbs lack the stored nutrients required for good results;
  2. Use rainwater instead of tap water;
  3. The base of the bulb should be just above the water level;
  4. Add charcoal to the water so that it doesn’t go sour;
  5. Check regularly for evaporation;
  6. Keep the containers in a cool, dark room until the roots have formed and the bulbs begin to shoot. A dark cupboard or cellar is ideal;
  7. Do not rush the bulbs into flower. Most are native to mountainous conditions and need the coolness to fully develop their root systems.
  8. Gradually introduce light and warmth;
  9. Beyond this advice follow the same procedures as you would when growing in fibre.

Chris points out that his company’s catalogue includes detailed instructions for bulb cultivation but they are always happy to be contacted for individual advice. In addition to the website address given above their mailing address is:

Blom’s Bulbs,  Primrose Nurseries,  Melchbourne,   Bedford,   MK44 1ZZ

SEPTEMBER 2022

  1. Deadhead: hanging basket and container plants [feed them as well to keep them going until the first frosts]; annuals and perennials; penstemons, dahlias and roses.
  2. Plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses and hyacinths.
  3. Plant new perennials and order trees and shrubs which will grow well next spring if planted this autumn.
  4. Pumpkins: remove any leaves which are shading the fruits. Like squashes, the pumpkins should then be placed on a piece of slate or wood to raise them from a wet surface and prevent them from rotting.
  5. Tidy and clean up plots by removing expired crops and cleaning away weeds.
  6. Cover brassicas with netting to protect them from birds.
  7. Remove rotting fruits from pear, apple and plum trees so that they don’t spread diseases.
  8. Mow long grass under fruit trees so that windfall fruits are not concealed.
  9. Greenhouses: remove decayed matter and old compost; remove shading so that plants receive maximum light; water early in the day so that the greenhouse is dry by night and the risk of botrytis is reduced; close vents and doors late in the afternoon in order to conserve warmth overnight and help plants to crop for as long as possible.
  10. Lawns: aerate to avoid waterlogging and compacting; rake away thatch from the surface; apply a top dressing/autumn fertiliser.

AUGUST 2022

  1. Stake top-heavy dahlias and lilies to prevent rain and wind damage.
  2. Deadhead bedding and perennial plants together with lilies for better flowering either this autumn or next year.
  3. Trim lavender plants and perennials for compactness and tidiness.
  4. Cut back herbs so that you can harvest more tasty leaves before the frosts arrive. Dry or freeze the cuttings for later use in the kitchen.
  5. Pinch off the tips of runner bean plants after they have reached the limits of their supports. This will encourage side-shooting and a more convenient height for harvesting. Pick regularly to avoid stringiness and to make room for developing pods.
  6. Lift and dry onions, shallots and garlic once the foliage has dwindled and yellowed. Store in onion bags to prevent mould.
  7. Plant out rooted strawberry runners for a good crop next year. Tidy up this year’s strawberry plants and remove any old surrounding straw to improve ventilation and deter pests and diseases.
  8. Take photos of your garden if you’re thinking of re-arranging it during winter. They will give you more accurate reference points.
  9. Give hedges a final trim before they stop growing.
  10. Keep bird baths topped-up in hot weather.

JULY 2022
  1. Cut back: a] perennials [for tidy borders] b] penstemons [cut back to just above a bud for more flowers];c] hanging baskets [to encourage more flowers and foliage. Feed the baskets well afterwards.]; and d] geraniums and delphiniums [after first flowering].
  2. Prune: a] wisteria [prune side shoots from the main branch to 20 cms. from the base]; b] lupins; and c] deciduous magnolia [now is the best time if necessary].
  3.  Divide clumps of bearded iris so that they have time to form roots and flower buds for next year before the cold weather sets in.
  4.  Dead head: a] bedding and perennial plants [to prevent self-seeding and to encourage further flowers]; b] roses; and c] sweet peas.
  5.  New potatoes for Christmas can be planted now using pots or bags which can be moved under cover before the frosts arrive.
  6.  Train cucumber stems upwards by tying to vertical wires or poles thereby providing more space on the ground.
  7.  Discontinue harvesting rhubarb so that more reserves can be built up for next year.
  8.  Fruit trees: a] Thin out fruits to produce better-sized crops and prevent brown rot; and b] Prune plum, cherry, apricot and peach trees now to offset the risk of silver leaf disease.
  9. Turn the contents of your compost bins every month to keep them well aerated.
  10.  Remove floating blanket weed from ponds by twirling it around a stick or cane. Before composting leave it to dry out close to the pond edge so that any creatures caught up can escape back into the water.

JUNE 2022.

  1. Now that the frost risk is over summer bedding plants can be planted out and containers, hanging baskets and planters can be planted up. Plants being grown on in the greenhouse can be put outside in their final position. Tender vegetables such as courgettes, squash, tomatoes, and sweet corn can also be planted out.
  2. Thin-out hardy annuals; lift and divide clumps of snowdrops and bluebells after the leaves begin to turn yellow; lift and divide other overcrowded bulb clusters or cut back bulb foliage as soon as it has died back naturally.
  3. Keep newly-planted trees and shrubs well-watered to aid establishment.
  4. Pinch out fuchsia tips to encourage more foliage and flowers.
  5. Early potatoes can be harvested otherwise continue to earth them up as they grow or, if growing in bags, top-up the compost to half-way up the stem.
  6. Start pruning plum and cherry trees. On other fruit trees you can still thin-out congested branches for bigger and better fruits.
  7. Fruiting plants in containers should be given a high-potash liquid feed and patio fruit trees should be top dressed with fresh compost and slow-release fertiliser.
  8. When watering, where possible make small ponds around individual plants so that the water can sink as far as 10”/25 cms. . Merely wetting the surface encourages weeds and surface rooting which makes the plants more vulnerable. Remember also to provide water for birds to drink.
  9. Remove blanket weed from ponds so that birds and fish can breath more easily.
  10. Pests: take appropriate measures against white, powdery mildew, aphids, scarlet lily beetles, vine weevils and slugs.

MAY 2022.
  1. Prepare half-hardy plants for outdoor planting by leaving them out during the daytime then returning them under cover at night over 7 -10 days before planting out. Dahlias and tender exotics should be planted out when there is no further risk of frost. The same process should be used for pots and baskets of summer bedding plants which, in colder areas should go out after June 1st. Tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins should also be hardened off for planting at the same time.
  2. Divide herbaceous perennials and, as they come into growth, hostas.
  3. Spreading plants such as aubretia should be cut back after flowering and forget-me-nots should be lifted to reduce self-seeding.
  4. Take cuttings of tender perennials such as fuchsias, new shoots of hardy perennials, and softwood cuttings of shrubby herbs such as sage.
  5. Trim lavenders by cutting off old flower heads plus 2.5 cms/ 1 “ of new growth.
  6. Container plants should be well watered and provided with a balanced feed every 2 -4 weeks.                                                                                                   
  7. Look out for, and be prepared to eradicate, pests such as lily beetle, and blackspot on roses.
  8. Harvest rhubarb but no more than one third of the total crop.
  9. Thin out directly-sown vegetables such as carrots, spinach and lettuce seedlings then water the remaining crops. Use fleece or ‘enviromesh’ to protect against carrot fly. Check gooseberry bushes for sawfly infestation.
  10. Weed constantly so that crops are not deprived of water, light and nutrients

APRIL 2022.

  1.  Dig in at least 5 cms of compost or well-rotted manure into flower and vegetable beds. You can also mix-in a general purpose fertiliser such as pelleted chicken manure or fish, blood and bone. Organic matter should also be applied as a mulch around perennials, trees and shrubs, before the onset of hot weather, as well as to strawberry beds where covering with cloches will help to produce earlier crops.
  2. Start planting lily bulbs now for a summer display. Planting them in pots has the advantage that they can be moved around either on patios or to fill in spaces in borders. A container of at least 12”/30 cms. diameter, enough for 3 bulbs, should be half-filled with good multi-purpose compost. The bulbs should then be covered with more compost and watered-in. Move to a sunny position when the first shoots appear and feed weekly with a liquid plant feed from the beginning of summer.
  3. Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser which should be lightly forked into the soil surface.
  4. Divide: perennials [cut back dead foliage]; hostas [before they come into leaf]; primroses [after they have finished flowering].
  5. Tie-in to supports: climbing and rambling roses, honeysuckle and clematis. Make sure that tree ties do not cut into the tree trunk and that they are loose enough to allow the trunk to expand.
  6. Bulbs such as hyacinths and daffodils which have been forced for indoor flowering can be planted outdoors after the flowering has finished.
  7. Prune forsythias back to strong, young shoots and trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers disappear.
  8. Thin-out carrot seedlings, preferably at evening time when there are less carrot flies about.
  9. Raspberry canes, fruit bushes and fruit trees will benefit from an application of slow-release fertiliser.
  10. Lawns: sow new seeds on well-prepared soil and keep moist during germination; repair bare patches; apply high-nitrogen fertiliser to all lawns;  tackle moss and weeds with specialist killer substances; on dry days brush away worm casts and aerate compacted areas by spiking them.

MARCH 2022

  1. When the soil is workable dig in at least 5 cms. of compost or well-rotted manure into your beds. Pelleted chicken manure and fish, blood and bone can also be used. For vegetable beds remove all weeds first of all and then cover the intended area with plastic sheeting in order to keep it dry and warm. [NB thorough early weeding is always recommended since it helps to keep down the quantity of weeds].
  2.  Deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved now if required as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Those remaining in place should be fed by forking-in slow-release fertiliser.
  3.  As roses start growing feed them with special rose-feed or balanced fertiliser and prune them to encourage good growth.
  4.  Cutting-back is advised for the following to encourage new growth: dead foliage on perennials and autumn grasses; cornus and salix cultivars; top rosettes of leaves from mahonia shrubs; overwintering fuchsias so that only one or two buds are left on each shoot; winter-flowering jasmine where the previous year’s growth should be cut back to 5 cms. from the old wood; winter-flowering heathers as the flowers disappear; old hellebore leaves which can harbour disease. 
  5. Onions, garlic and shallots can be planted into the ground but if conditions are not yet suitable then the seeds can be planted into individual pots. 
  6.  Vegetable seeds such as carrots, radishes and lettuce can be sown in greenhouse borders or under cloches.
  7.  Fruit trees such as apple and cherry can now be planted. Choose a sunny and sheltered location.
  8. Protect the blossoms of apricots, peaches and nectarines from frost by using a screen or horticultural fleece. New stone-fruit trees can be planted now and all fruit trees can be mulched with well-rotted manure or garden compost although care should be taken not to mulch around the trunk.
  9.  Choose a dry day for giving lawns their first cut of the year.
  10.  Watch out for slugs as the weather warms and keep them at bay with non-toxic controls such as nematodes or sheep wool and droppings.

FEBRUARY 2022

  1. Trim deciduous hedges before birds start nesting.
  2. Plan your vegetable plot to ensure crop rotation in order to avoid pests and diseases.
  3. Plan your garden overall to help you to assess your needs regarding seeds and plug plants which can be ordered now.
  4. Sow seeds according to the recommended sowing month. Don’t be tempted to sow too much at an early stage since the restricted daylight hours will cause the plants to be leggy. Later sowings will germinate perfectly effectively.
  5. If you want to move deciduous trees and shrubs then you can do so now as long as the ground is not waterlogged or frozen.
  6. Plant lily and alum bulbs, and plant bare-root roses in a sunny position for attractive summer colour.
  7. Hardwood cuttings from last year may well need planting or potting-on; root cuttings of tender perennials from last summer can be potted-on.
  8. Prepare vegetable seed beds by remove all weeds and forking-in compost. Cover the prepared areas with black plastic to keep them warmer and drier in readiness for planting. If you have to contend with heavy, clayey soil then build raised beds prior to the growing season since they drain more quickly and the soil warms faster.
  9. Vegetable seeds such as leeks, onions and celeriacs can be sown under cover.
  10. Prune/cut back:
  • cornus and salix [cut down to bases];
  • old foliage from ornamental grasses. Clip to with a few cms. from the ground before new growth begins;
  • overwintered fuchsias. Cut back to one or two buds per shoot;
  •  winter-flowering jasmine. Cut the previous year’s growth to 5 cms. above the old wood;  
  • winter-flowering shrubs such as mahonia after the display has finished;
  • winter-flowering heathers as the flowers disappear so that they don’t become leggy;
  • remove faded flowers from winter pansies so that they don’t set seed and this will help them to flower anew.
JANUARY 2022
  1. Brush heavy snow from hedges and conifers so that branches don’t break under the weight. Similarly keep snow off greenhouse roofs and coldframes.
  2. Christmas trees can be shredded for compost or the branches used as pea sticks.
  3. Check fruit, vegetables and dahlia tubers which are in storage and remove any which show signs of disease or rotting.
  4. Plan your vegetable plot now to ensure efficient rotation in order to offset pests and diseases.
  5. Plants which are too tender to leave outside should be brought either into a greenhouse or a conservatory. Plants which are capable of being left outdoors should be protected with straw or fleece.
  6. Newly-planted trees, hedges and shrubs should be protected by windbreaks if there is no natural shelter. Re-firm any loosened roots and protect from the cold with straw. Branches can be given additional protection by covering with fleece or packing with dry straw, or both forms of protection together. Plants damaged by frost can be helped to recover during spring by mulching with a mixture of compost and fertiliser.
  7. Cut down the stems of old perennials such as sedum but take care with the new growth.
  8. If you intend growing early peas then place a cloche over the soil so that the ground warms up prior to sowing.
  9. Potatoes: start early crops in containers which are under cover. Use potato patio planters if you are growing them in a small space.
  10. Remove yellowing leaves from winter brassicas since they are of no benefit and may even harbour pests and disease.

DECEMBER 2021

  1. Prune the following: i. Wisteria –  cut back summer side-shoots to 2 or 3 buds; ii. Climbing roses  – cut back diseased/damaged growth, tie new shoots to supports and prune older flowered side-shoots to a third of their original length; Japanese maples and vines [if necessary] since late pruning will cause bleeding.
  2. Move containers of shrubs/bedding plants to a sheltered position. Several containers should be clustered together to prevent frost damage to roots.
  3. For winter attractions plant up containers of hardy cyclamen, ivy, skimmia, and evergreen grasses such as carex.
  4. Spread fresh grit/gravel around alpine plants.
  5. Before the ground freezes hard, lift remaining leeks and parsnips and leave them in a trench by a path where they will be easily accessible.
  6. Lift and divide settled clumps of rhubarb to renew their vigour. Sections taken from the sides are better than those taken from the middle.
  7. Use netting/fleece on cold nights to protect the following: winter brassicas; hardy winter salad crops such as lettuce, Winterland cress, purslane and corn salad.
  8. Now is the time to plant new raspberry canes and blueberries and to replace strawberry plants which are more than 3 years old.
  9. Prune grape vines and trees which produce stoneless fruits; use fleece/straw to keep frost away from fig tree branch tips; protect well-trained peaches and nectarines from wet-induced peach leaf curl fungus by placing a screen of polythene over, but not touching, the plant.
  10. Lawns: keep clearing fallen leaves to prevent dead patches and don’t walk on the grass when covered by snow. In mild weather continue to cut but with the mower blades raised.

NOVEMBER 2021 ( Ten Tips plus a plea ! )

  1. Plant spring bedding displays of violas, pansies and primulas.
  2. Plant heathers, grasses and trailing ivy in pots for winter colour.
  3. Lift dahlia tubers, begonias and gladioli corms so that they can be stored dry during winter. Remove dead foliage before storing.
  4. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of herbaceous perennials so that they maintain vigour. Cut back any yellowing foliage.
  5. Now is a good time to spread fresh manure over vegetable beds so that it rots in during winter. If digging the ground then do so when it is not too wet and keep weeding.
  6. Divide mature rhubarb clumps once they are dormant.
  7. Plant currant bushes while they are dormant.
  8. Remove the top netting from fruit cages otherwise it will sag under heavy snow.
  9. Greenhouses: replace any damaged glass; wash and disinfect the glass, floor and staging; insulate the interior with bubblewrap to reduce heat loss; ventilate after watering and after any use by night of paraffin heaters; install solar lights so that you can check plants during darkness.
  10. Aerate your lawns and clear fallen leaves which can be used for leaf mould. Oak, alder and hornbeam leaves will rot within a year while those of beech, sycamore and horse/sweet chestnut need two years.
  11. FINAL PLEA IF YOU’RE LIGHTING A BONFIRE – DO CHECK THE BASE OF THE BONFIRE BEFORE LIGHTING TO MAKE SURE THAT NO HEDGEHOGS OR OTHER WILDLIFE ARE PRESENT.

OCTOBER 2021

  1. Summer containers can be re-planted with winter bedding plants.
  2. Autumn is a good time for planting clematis, hedges, fruit trees; for moving trees and shrubs; for taking hardwood cuttings from deciduous shrubs.
  3. Prune climbing and rambling roses once flowering has finished and tie in the stems to avoid wind damage.
  4. After peas and beans have finished cropping cut away the plant at ground level leaving the roots in the soil so that fixed nitrogen can be released into the soil as the roots break down.
  5. Plants with green tomatoes or peppers remaining on them can be hung upside-down indoors to ripen.
  6. Squashes and pumpkins should be harvested before the first frosts otherwise they will become mushy.
  7. Autumn garlic bulbs and onion sets should be planted now for a good crop next summer.
  8. Old grow-bags can be re-used by cutting away the tops and sowing late salad crops. Cropping can be extended into winter if grown under grass cloches or polytunnels.
  9. Divide congested rhubarb clumps by digging up and splitting into several pieces with a spade. Re-plant those which appear most healthy.
  10. If planting blueberries then grow them in acid soil or in pots of ericaceous compost.

You may also like to take a look at the October Newsletter for further tips towards the foot of the newsletter, which have been kindly supplied by Chris Blom of Blom’s bulbs.

SEPTEMBER 2021

  1. Keep dead-heading: annuals, perennials, penstemons, dahlias, and roses in order to prolong displays. Also dead- head and feed plants in containers and hanging baskets.
  2. Prune late-summer flowering shrubs and, if they have finished flowering, rambling and climbing roses. Leave repeat-flowering varieties.
  3. Autumn-flowering plants such as sedum and chrysanthemum can add colour to border spaces until the end of autumn.
  4. The following can be profitably planted out now: spring-flowering bulbs, new perennials, foxgloves, violas, wallflowers, new trees and shrubs, and hardy annuals.
  5. Remove the foliage of main-crop potatoes to ground level 3 weeks before lifting. This will prevent blight spores infecting the tubers during lifting and will help to firm the skins of the potatoes. Newly-dug potatoes should be spread out for a few hours in order to dry before being stored in a cool, dark place. Store them in sacks of hessian or paper so that they can breath during storage. Make sure that ALL tubers are disease-free since only 1 rotten one can ruin an entire crop.
  6. Pumpkins and squashes: place them on pieces of slate or wood to raise them from wet soil and prevent rotting. Remove leaves which shadow pumpkins so that they ripen in time for Halloween.
  7. When beans and peas have finished cropping cut them at ground level, leaving the roots in the soil so that as they break down they slowly release nitrogen into the ground. Where crops have completely finished they should be cleared away along with any weeds so that the ground is clean and tidy for winter.
  8. Order strawberries, raspberries, blackberries or currant bushes for a crop next year since these are best planted during the dormant season. Cut back the canes of fruited summer raspberries and tie the new green canes to supports ready for next year’s fruiting.
  9. For next year pot up strawberry runners for extra plants and plant out rooted strawberry runners. Tidy up current strawberry plants and clear away used straw since it will harbour pests and diseases during winter.
  10. Greenhouses: clean them out, along with used pots and containers, to deter over-wintering pests and diseases; remove any shading so that plants receive maximum light; water any plants early in the day so that the greenhouse is dry by nightfall otherwise cool/damp nights can encourage botrytis; close vents and doors during late afternoon in order to keep in warmth overnight so that plants crop for as long as possible.

AUGUST 2021

TOP TEN TIPS FOR AUGUST 2021 [plus an additional item kindly given by Chris Blom of ‘Blom’s Bulbs’ in connection with lily beetles].

  1. Water only when necessary rather than every day, although an exception may be made for fruit and vegetables during warm weather. Thorough watering will nourish for 14 days whereas merely wetting the surface will encourage weeds and surface rooting which makes plants more vulnerable. Use water butts to save as much rainwater as possible. Particular attention should be given to camellias and rhododendrons along with patio-container plants which should also be given liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks.
  2. Dead-head bedding and perennial plants to encourage autumn flowering and stop self-seeding. Also dead-head lilies for a better display next year.
  3. After flowering, cut back lavender, faded perennials, penstemon [cut back to just above a leaf for more flowers], herbs, summer-flowering shrubs, and climbing and rambling roses [but not repeat-flowering varieties].
  4. For next year take cuttings of favourite perennials for propagation, and divide clumps of bearded iris so that they can form roots and flower buds before the cold season.
  5. Tomatoes: feed with tomato fertiliser and remove leaves from lower down the plant to improve air circulation and prevent diseases. Pinch out the plant tops to concentrate growth into fruits which have already formed and leave 5-6 trusses per plant. Watch out for tomato blight and destroy affected plants immediately.
  6. Apply high-potash fertilisers [e.g. tomato food] to sweet corn, peppers, cucumbers, and aubergines.
  7. Strawberries: plant out rooted runners for a good crop next year and tidy current plants by removing old surrounding straw which will improve ventilation and deter diseases and pests.
  8. Give hedges a final trim before they stop growing.
  9. Turn compost in bins each month to improve decomposition by letting in air.
  10. Don’t allow bulrushes and Irises to go to seed in your pond.

                Finally, some thoughts from Chris Blom:

                               ” Last year I mistakenly thought I had won the battle against lily beetle. Over the last week I have been proved sadly wrong. Many of the plants are covered in larvae and some have been completely stripped. The eggs are laid on the underside of the plant’s leaf from late April until mid-summer. That is when the damage starts as the larvae feed on the foliage. When done they return to the ground to pupate, leaving a covering of what looks like bird droppings on top of the soil. They emerge as adults in mid-summer when they carry on the feeding damage.

                                The job for today is to clean the plants as best as possible, removing the larvae from the foliage. I am going to cover the soil around the plants sparingly with cooking oil which should prevent the new adults from emerging. If all this fails, next year I may have to resort to spraying. Spraying should only be done late in the day after the full strength of the sun has passed, avoiding any burning to the plants”.

JULY 2021.

  1. Pruning/cutting back will encourage new growth in the following:
    1. Penstemon  – cut back to just above a bud;
    2. Hanging baskets – feed the contents well afterwards;
    3. Hardy geraniums and delphiniums – cut back after the first flowering;
    4. Wisteria – cut back side-shoots from the main branch to about 20 cms. from their base;
    5. Lupins;Deciduous magnolias – now is the best time for pruning
    6. Deciduous magnolias – now is the best time for pruning.
  2. The following will benefit from dead-heading:
    1. Bedding and perennial plants – to stop self-seeding and encourage further flowering;
    2. Roses;
    3. Sweet peas – water daily during dry weather.
  3. Watch for PESTS and treat immediately:
    1. Rust on hollyhock foliage- remove affected leaves and/or spray with fungicide;
    2. Clematis wilt – symptoms include wilting leaves and black discolouring on the leaves and on the stem. Cut away affected parts and consign to the household waste bin;
    3. Powdery mildew- remove affected plant part and spray with fungicide;
    4. Aphids on undersides of leaves – rub off by hand OR spray with insecticide OR use a natural repellent e.g. lace-wing larvae;
    5. Vine weevils can cause potted plants to wilt. Remove the plant from its pot and look for ‘C’- shaped creamy maggots among the roots. Treat with Nematodes if necessary.
  4. Weed control:
    1. Capture seed heads from weeds such as dandelions before they release themselves and spread around your garden;
    2. Spray ground elder, bindweed and other persistent weeds with a glyphosate-based weed killer since they will have plenty of leaf surface on which to absorb the chemicals.
  5. Even during the high summer thoughts need to be given to winter preparation:
    1. Divide clumps of bearded iris to allow time for the formation of next year’s roots and flower buds before colder weather arrives;
    2. Take cuttings from your favourite tender plants as well as from shrubs and herbaceous perennials for over-wintering indoors.
  6. Potatoes:
    1. Plant new potatoes for Christmas in pots or bags so that they can be taken under cover before the first frosts;
    2. Use grass cuttings as a mulch around potato plants so that tubers near the surface do not turn green. Alternatively, earth up the plants as they grow from the ground or, if growing in bags keep adding more compost until the bag is full.
  7. Tomatoes:
    1. Pick out any side shoots each week and cut off any leaves which grow below the lowest ripening fruit truss so that air circulation is improved and the risk of disease is lessened.
    2. Feed with dilute tomato fertiliser at least once/week to prevent the leaves turning pale and yellow.
  8. Vegetable pests:
    1. Use a natural repellent against slugs;
    2. Blackfly on broad beans – pinch off any affected growing tips;
    3. Cabbage-white butterfly eggs – squash any which occur under brassica leaves
    4.  Clear any diseased or spent foliage on or around plants and regularly clear  weeds so that they don’t use up water or nutrients.
  9. Cover developing fruits with netting to deter birds and squirrels.
  10. Water raspberries copiously in hot, dry weather since they are shallow- rooted

JUNE 2021

  1. Plant out summer bedding plants. Those which are in containers that have been grown in a greenhouse should now be moved to their outside positions as can be tender vegetables such as courgettes, squash, tomatoes and sweet corn.
  2. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of bulbs, including snowdrops and bluebells, once the leaves have started to yellow. Cut back the foliage after it has died back naturally.
  3. Newly-planted trees and shrubs should be well-watered to help them to establish themselves.
  4. Pinch fuchsia tips to encourage more flowers and a bushy appearance.
  5. Earth-up potato plants as they grow. Plants grown in bags should have extra compost added to halfway up their stems. Early potatoes should be ready for harvesting 10 weeks after planting.
  6. Pest control: use cabbage collars to protect against cabbage root fly and use horticultural fleece or ‘Enviromesh’ against carrot fly.
  7. Onion and garlic can be harvested after the leaves have started to turn yellow and to die back.
  8. Start to prune plum and cherry trees. Pruning congested branches on other fruit trees will encourage bigger and better fruits.
  9. Fruiting plants in containers should be kept healthy and productive with a high-potash liquid feed; patio dwarf fruit trees should be top dressed with fresh compost and slow-release fertiliser.
  10. Greenhouses: open vents and door on warm days; check daily any plants which are inside and water if their soil is dry; use blinds or shade paint to avoid overheating; dampen the floor on hot days to increase humidity and to deter red-spider mites.

MAY 2021

  1. Closely inspect your plants for pests and diseases so that early prevention will be better than later cure. Pick off rosemary and viburnum larvae and lily beetles as soon as they appear and be ready to treat blackspot on roses with a systemic fungicide. Remove gooseberry sawfly caterpillars.
  2. Water container plants and give them a balanced liquid feed every 2 – 4 weeks. Water young fruit trees while they are in the rapid growth stage.
  3. Divide herbaceous perennials and hostas.
  4. After they have flowered, trim back spreading plants such as aubretia, alyssum and candy tuft to encourage new growth.
  5. Cut off old flower heads from lavender, about an inch from the new growth.
  6. Before planting half-hardy plants outdoors harden them off over 7 – 10 days by leaving them outside during daytime and then bringing them under cover by night. Similarly, harden off dahlias and tender exotics so that they are ready for planting when the risk of frost has passed.
  7. Allow the foliage of spring-flowering plants to die-back naturally. Do not cut or tie-back.
  8. Use netting on strawberries and other soft fruits to deter birds.
  9. Hang pheromone traps in plum trees from May to August in order to monitor plum-fruit moths, and also in apple trees to reduce codling moths. Use horticultural fleece or enviromesh to deter carrot fly.
  10. Weed thoroughly so that water, light and nutrients are not denied from cultivated plants.


APRIL 2021

  1.  Dig at least 5 cms. of compost or well-rotted manure into growing beds. Pelleted chicken manure or Fish, Blood and Bone are also effective.
  2.  Plant lily bulbs in pots. Use good multi-purpose compost to half-fill a 12” [at least] pot with 3 bulbs and then cover with more compost and provide some water. Move to a sunny spot when the first shoots appear and give a weekly liquid plant feed during the summer.
  3. Use an organic well-rotted mulch for perennials, trees and shrubs before the hot weather arrives [assuming that it will!]. Provide slow-release fertiliser by lightly forking it in to the soil, particularly beneficial for roses.
  4.  Lift and divide perennials to improve vigour and to create new plants. Also divide hostas before they come into leaf and divide primroses after they have finished flowering.
  5.  Evergreen shrubs and trees can be moved if the soil is not frozen or waterlogged.
  6.  Plant herbaceous perennials. In addition summer-flowering bulbs such as gladiolus and ranunculus can be planted in beds, borders and containers, and forced bulbs such as daffodils and hyacinths which have flowered indoors can be planted outside.
  7.  Supports should be secured for climbing and rambling roses as well as for honeysuckle and clematis. Make sure that tree ties are not cutting into the trunks.
  8.  Many vegetables such as parsnips, radishes and cabbages can now be sown directly into the ground.
  9.  Cover fruit blossoms with fleece for protection against low night temperatures.
  10.  Lawns: repair bare patches; apply high-nitrogen fertiliser and , if necessary, a specialist lawn weed killer; brush away worm casts on dry days; if sowing lawn seed or laying new turf, keep surfaces moist while the seeds germinate or the turf is bedding in.

MARCH 2021

  1. Ventilate greenhouses and coldframes on warm days and keep bags of compost  in your greenhouse so that they warm up prior to use.
  2. Start sowing bedding plant seeds for planting out after the last frosts.
  3. Re-pot orchids and other house plants before they resume active growth.
  4. PLANTING BEDS: dig in 5 cms. of compost or well-rotted manure or green waste. Remove weeds from vegetable beds before composting and cover with black plastic sheeting to keep the ground warm and dry before planting. RAISED BEDS should be topped with compost and good-quality topsoil.
  5. Chit seed potatoes on delivery and then towards the end of the month plant outside, either in the ground or in potato growing-kits.
  6. Plant new asparagus beds from crowns and weed/mulch existing beds, weeding by hand since asparagus roots are shallow. For planting: dig a trench 20/25 cms. deep and 30 cms. wide adding well-rotted compost mixed with blood, fish and bone or bonemeal, the latter at the rate of 85 gms/sq.metre. The crowns should be placed 45 cms. apart with the roots spread out before being covered with sieved soil with emerging buds just below the soil level.
  7. RHUBARB: mulch with a thick layer of well-rotted manure to reduce moisture loss through the soil but DON’T COVER THE CROWNS. Fresh crowns can be planted now.
  8. Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a slow-release fertiliser, forking it lightly into the soil surface and feed roses with a special feed or a balanced fertiliser.
  9. Forced flower bulbs such as hyacinth or daffodils should be planted outdoors when indoor flowering is over.
  10. Sow flower seeds now ready for planting out in June.

FEBRUARY 2021. 

  1. Be wary of the temptation to sow too many seeds in your greenhouse at this time since they may become ‘leggy’ due to low light levels. Later sowings will easily catch up.
  2. Seeds and plug plants can be ordered online now. Consider putting bedding plants in containers and hanging baskets while flowers such as Lily-of-the-Valley and gladioli can be ordered in preparation for spring planting.
  3. Trim deciduous hedges before birds start nesting and cut back vines such as ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy to keep them clear of windows, gutters and roof tiles. If you are intending to add woody prunings to your compost bin then shred them or cut them up into small pieces beforehand since they will be slow to decompose.
  4. Prune or cut back: wisteria [prune summer side shoots to 2 or 3 buds]; summer-flowering clematis; cornus and salix [ cut back to bases]; ornamental grasses [cut to a few centimetres above the ground]; overwintering fuchsias [prune to 1 or 2 buds on each shoot]; winter-flowering heathers [trim as the flowers disappear so that the stems don’t become leggy].
  5. Prepare vegetable seed beds by removing weeds and applying plenty of compost. Sheets of black plastic over prepared areas will keep them drier and warmer before planting.
  6. If you’re keen to make an early start with planting but your soil is clayey then build raised beds before the growing season gets under way since the soil will warm more quickly and be better- drained.
  7. If you haven’t already done so, autumn-fruiting raspberry canes should be pruned to ground level to encourage new growth, and summer-fruiting canes should be cut to just above their supports, cutting just above a bud.
  8. New raspberry canes can be planted for the coming summer and currant bushes can also still be planted between now and the coming spring.
  9. Prune bushes bearing black and red currants and gooseberries.
  10. Fruit trees can be mulched with well-rotted manure or compost but keep the trunks clear.

JANUARY 2021

  1. Precautions for cold spells: tender, unprotected plants should be left in a greenhouse or conservatory. Use protective straw of fleece for
    anything left outside and use bubble wrap, hessian or fleece for non frost-proof containers which are liable to crack. Grouping pots close to a
    south-facing wall can also be helpful..  
  2. Cold winds and frosts can loosen and lift the roots of newly-planted trees, hedges and shrubs. Re-firm the roots into the ground and provide temporary netting as a wind-break if there is no natural shelter. Thick, dry mulches also offer protection for roots while branches can be covered with fleece which may be supported by straw underlay. A wooden frame covered with clear polythene is also effective but make sure that the polythene does not touch any leaves since condensation may freeze or cause rotting.
  3.   If any winter damage is noticed then protecting with compost mulch and using a fertiliser such as ‘Incredibloom’ can aid revival.
  4.   Pruning: cut back Wisteria summer side shoots to 2 or 3 buds; cut back rose bushes to just above a bud and remove crossed or dead branches. Ornamental grasses should be cut back to a few centimetres above ground before they start to grow again. Cut down old stems of perennials such as sedum but take care not to harm new growth. Brightly coloured willows should have diseased and old stems removed and overcrowded stems thinned out.
  5. Remove faded flowers from winter pansies so that they don’t set seed.
  6.   If you are planning to grow early peas then place cloches over the soil to warm it up prior to sowing.
  7.  Potatoes: start growing them in containers under cover for a very early crop. If space is limited then use potato patio planters.
  8.  Cover rhubarb crowns with upturned buckets or bins in order to force the pink stems to grow.
  9. You can still prune apple and pear trees as long as they remain dormant but leave plum, apricot and cherry trees until the summer in order to avoid silver leaf infection.
  10. Don’t allow heavy snow to accumulate on greenhouses, cold frames,hedges and conifers otherwise it can cause damage.

DECEMBER 2020

  1. When planning next year’s vegetable garden be sure to practise good crop  rotation in order to avoid pests and diseases.
  2. Order apple trees now for early spring planting. If space is a problem then consider planting dwarf fruit trees.
  3.  Greenhouses: wash glass, floor and staging with horticultural disinfectant; wash and disinfect capillary matting before storing it away; clear heavy snow from greenhouses and cold frames straightaway to avoid damage to glass surfaces.
  4.  If you have plants in your greenhouse then water them sparingly to keep the atmosphere as dry as possible. Ventilate the greenhouse on warmer days to reduce humidity and the risk of disease. If you spot aphids on over-wintering plants then remove them by hand or use pesticide.
  5.  Insulate outdoor taps or turn them off at the mains, and pack away hose pipes which are not required.
  6. Prune: wisteria [cut back summer side shoots to 2 or 3 buds]; climbing roses [cut away diseased/damaged growth, tie new shoots to supports, prune older, flowered side shoots to two-thirds of their length]; prune Japanese maples and vines NOW if necessary otherwise they will bleed sap if pruned later.
  7. Winter containers of hardy cyclamen, ivy, skimmia, and evergreen grasses will add colour to your garden, especially when placed by entrances and path sides.
  8. Dig over empty borders and top them with manure so that worms and frosts will break up the soil.
  9. Dig a trench where you intend to grow beans next year, fill it with compostable kitchen waste [NOT COOKED FOOD] then rake the soil over it so that the waste rots down to provide better nutrition for the crop.
  10. Lift and divide established clumps of rhubarb. Sections taken from the outside are better than those taken from the centre.

NOVEMBER 2020 

  1. There is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. A terracotta pot of hyacinth bulbs will also produce a fine spring display.
  2. Planting a magnolia tree at this time will produce a fine display next spring.
  3. Plant spring bedding displays of pansies, violas and primulas.
  4. Lift dahlia tubers, begonias and gladiolus corms to dry over the winter. Remove dead foliage before storing.
  5. Gather fallen leaves from the bases of roses which suffered from blackspot or rust during the summer, so that you reduce the risk of infection next year.
  6. Lift parsnips after the first frosts when their flavour will have sweetened.
  7. Now is the time to apply fresh manure to vegetable beds so that it rots down during winter.
  8. Plant raspberry canes now and tidy up strawberry plants by cutting off dead leaves and removing runners.
  9. Remove rotting or diseased fruits from any which are in storage.
  10. Apply gluebands/greasebands to the trunks of fruit trees to deter wingless female winter moths from laying eggs in the branches and prune pear and apple trees between now and February but leave plum trees until mid-summer.

OCTOBER 2020

  1. Old grow bags can be re-used by cutting away the tops and sowing late salad crops. Growing under glass, cloches or polytunnels will enable cropping to be extended into winter.
  2. Now is a good time to plant many varieties of fruit trees.
  3. Congested clumps of rhubarb should be dug up and split with a spade into several pieces. Re-plant those pieces which look healthiest.
  4. Prune climbing roses and rambling roses once they have finished flowering then tie in the stems to prevent wind damage.
  5. If your summer containers look faded then re-plant them with fresh winter bedding plants.
  6. Autumn is a good time to plant clematis.
  7. After completing the harvesting of peas and beans, cut the plants off at ground level, leaving the roots in the ground for nitrogen fixing and subsequent release into the ground as the roots decompose. Prepare sites for next years beans by digging a trench and filling it with manure and/or kitchen waste.
  8. Hardwood cuttings can now be taken from deciduous shrubs.
  9. Any remaining green tomatoes or peppers can be hung upside-down indoors for ripening.
  10. Autumn garlic bulbs and onion sets can now be planted for next summer.

SEPTEMBER 2020

  1. If you have clay soil then try to improve it by incorporating organic matter and/or horticultural grit before winter sets in.
  2. Prepare compost bins for the fallen leaves and dead material which will accumulate. However, don’t compost diseased material as the spores may remain in the compost and infect future plants. Either burn it or dispose of it with household waste.
  3. Before winter arrives raise pots off the ground to prevent waterlogging.
  4. Clear pond weeds and, if possible, spread a net over the water to catch autumn leaves.
  5. Greenhouses: empty pots of old compost and decayed plants so that they do not harbour pests; also clean out the greenhouse itself. Remove any shading from the panes so that plants benefit from maximum sunlight, and close vents and doors late in the afternoon in order to retain heat overnight so that plants crop for as long as possible. Water early in the day so that the greenhouse dries out by evening since damp and cool nights can encourage botrytis.
  6. New strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and currant bushes are best planted during the dormant season so order them now.
  7. Remove foliage from maincrop potatoes at ground level 3 weeks before you intend to lift so that blight spores don’t infect tubers during lifting and so that the potato skins become firm. Spread out newly-dug potatoes to dry for a few hours before storage in a cool, dark place in paper or hessian sacks. Remember that one rotten potato can ruin an entire crop.
  8. Removing leaves from over pumpkins will help to ripen them in time for Halloween and placing them on slate or wood to raise them off wet soil will prevent them from rotting.
  9. Keep dead-heading the following to extend their performance: hanging-basket and container plants; annuals and perennials; penstemons, dahlias and roses.
  10. It is worth planting the following now for next year: hardy annuals, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, and new perennials. Hyacinths and amaryllis can be prepared for forcing in time for Christmas flowering.

 AUGUST 2020 

  1. Stake tall or top heavy lilies, dahlias etc. to prevent wind damage, and deadhead lilies for a better display next year.
  2. Deadhead bedding and perennial plants to stop self-seeding and to encourage more flowering into autumn.
  3. Trim lavender plants after flowering to keep them compact.
  4. Mow wild flower meadows to help scatter seeds.
  5. Tomatoes: continue to feed with tomato fertiliser, remove leaves from lower down the plant to help air circulation and prevent disease, and pinch out the tops of the plants to concentrate growth into fruits which have already formed, leaving 5 or 6 trusses of fruit per plant.
  6. Runner beans: pinch out the tips once the shoots have reached the limits of their supports so that side shoots are encouraged to grow at a more manageable height. Harvest frequently to make room for developing pods and to prevent seed-setting which will reduce your crop.
  7. Harvest potatoes, onions, shallots and garlic once the foliage starts to die back and go yellow. Store potatoes in hessian sacks to exclude light but allow ventilation, and store onions , shallots and garlic in onion bags to prevent mould developing.
  8. Strawberries: remove old straw to improve ventilation and deter pests; plant out rooted runners for a good crop next year.
  9. Fruit plants in containers should be given a high potash liquid feed so that they stay healthy and productive.
  10. Summer raspberries: cut back fruited canes and tie new, green canes to support wire or fencing.